Richard,
What materials do you use?

How do you get the guard to be stiff enough when the supports are so far apart?

I am thinking of making a light sub-frame that bolts on in the same spot as the front 
bumper with a couple of stringers that go back to the chassis rails, then using some 
kind of light gauge plate (alloy hopefully) with folded sides that bolts on to the 
subframe.

Nick
============================================================
From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 22:03:09 +1000
To: "Datsun 1600" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: sump guards

Nick,
Bolt the front of the sump guard through holes drilled into the curved braces beneath 
the front mounts of castor arms, and the rear to the gearbox cross member. Dont bolt 
to the engine cross member, let it run lower than that so it has some "give" and 
doesn't stuff the cross member if it gets hit hard - which it will.  Some people use 
rubber engine mounts between the engine cross member and the sump guard.  Remember any 
bolts that sit below the sump guard under the car will be removed by a rock one day 
(night?), unless the guard has a small metal block welded in front of each bolt head.  
Use high tensile cap screws, (unbreako bolts) to increase the chances of being able to 
remove the sump guard after a rally. 

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ken Abraham 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Wednesday, 4 April 2001 20:22 PM
  Subject: sump guards


  List,

  Where are the best places to hang a sump guard off?
  I am particularly intersted in what to do around the centre section, near the engine 
cross-member.

  I will copy the works style Safari spec. Y-shaped guard that has rear mounts on the 
chassis rails under the footwells, but the front and middle mounting has me stumped.

  The main things to consider are strength and minimum loss of ground clearance (the 
hard bit).


  Thanks,
  Nick
  1978 Datsun Stanza

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Nick,
Bolt the front of the sump guard = through holes=20 drilled into the curved braces beneath the front mounts of castor = arms, and=20 the rear to the gearbox cross member. Dont bolt to the engine cross = member,=20 let it run lower than that so it has some "give" and doesn't stuff the = cross=20 member if it gets hit hard - which it will.  Some people use rubber = engine=20 mounts between the engine cross member and the sump guard.  = Remember any=20 bolts that sit below the sump guard under the car will be removed = by a rock=20 one day (night?), unless the guard has a small metal block welded in = front of=20 each bolt head.  Use high tensile cap screws, (unbreako bolts)=20 to increase the chances of being able to remove the sump guard = after a=20 rally.
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Ken=20 Abraham
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=
Sent: Wednesday, 4 April 2001 = 20:22=20 PM
Subject: sump guards

List,
 
Where are the best places to hang a sump = guard=20 off?
I am particularly intersted in what to do around=20 the centre section, near the engine cross-member.
 
I will copy the works style Safari spec. Y-shaped = guard that=20 has rear mounts on the chassis rails under the footwells, but the = front and=20 middle mounting has me stumped.
 
The main things to consider are strength and = minimum loss of=20 ground clearance (the hard bit).
 
 
Thanks,
Nick
1978 Datsun=20 = Stanza

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http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm=20
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