No, Trevor,
Its exterior is red and white. I didn't check out the interior as it was
night time.
By the way, 2 out of 4 Datto 1600's DNF'ed - its just not done chaps! One
of the DNF's drove to the finish! So that left one that DNFed with terminal
problems.
The Swan girls in their Historic 1600 (genuine 1600cc block, stock brakes)
finished 33rd, with the car looking and sounding showroom immaculate. I dont
know how Penny and Val kept it on the road and so clean in such a dusty
event. The other 1600 finished a few positions ahead of them. This was a
PRC spec car L18plus, disc all round, 5 speed etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pooley, Trevor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, 9 April 2001 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: sump guards
> Richard,
>
> Is that a green car with a white cage?
>
> Trev
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Clough [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Saturday, 7 April 2001 15:08
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: sump guards
>
>
> 6mm aluminum plate with strengthening ribs welded into the bend, on the
top
> side beside the sump.
>
> I originally thought you were talking about a 1600 but later realized its
a
> Stanza.
>
> I am currently taking a break from spectating at the "Rally in the Valley"
> which is happening all around me today. There are a couple of nice
Stanzas
> running, so I will peak under later on to see how their guards are fitted.
> Chris boland is supporting one so he will know. Its a nice 2.4 ltr L
series
> with 48mm Webers. Owner is Ben Hayes - anyone know it?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, 7 April 2001 1:33 AM
> Subject: Re: sump guards
>
> Richard,
> What materials do you use?
>
> How do you get the guard to be stiff enough when the supports are so far
> apart?
>
> I am thinking of making a light sub-frame that bolts on in the same spot
as
> the front bumper with a couple of stringers that go back to the chassis
> rails, then using some kind of light gauge plate (alloy hopefully) with
> folded sides that bolts on to the subframe.
>
> Nick
> ============================================================
> From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 22:03:09 +1000
> To: "Datsun 1600" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: sump guards
>
> Nick,
> Bolt the front of the sump guard through holes drilled into the curved
> braces beneath the front mounts of castor arms, and the rear to the
gearbox
> cross member. Dont bolt to the engine cross member, let it run lower than
> that so it has some "give" and doesn't stuff the cross member if it gets
hit
> hard - which it will. Some people use rubber engine mounts between the
> engine cross member and the sump guard. Remember any bolts that sit below
> the sump guard under the car will be removed by a rock one day (night?),
> unless the guard has a small metal block welded in front of each bolt
head.
> Use high tensile cap screws, (unbreako bolts) to increase the chances of
> being able to remove the sump guard after a rally.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Abraham
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, 4 April 2001 20:22 PM
> Subject: sump guards
>
>
> List,
>
> Where are the best places to hang a sump guard off?
> I am particularly intersted in what to do around the centre section,
near
> the engine cross-member.
>
> I will copy the works style Safari spec. Y-shaped guard that has rear
> mounts on the chassis rails under the footwells, but the front and middle
> mounting has me stumped.
>
> The main things to consider are strength and minimum loss of ground
> clearance (the hard bit).
>
>
> Thanks,
> Nick
> 1978 Datsun Stanza
>
> --membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
> OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
> Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> No unauthorised redistribution of this email
> <a
>
href="http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm">http://www.ozdat.com/ozdat
> online/index.htm</a>
> <a
>
href="http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html">http://www.ozdat.com/
> ozdatonline/listindex.html</a>
> <a
>
href="http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/">http://ww
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]/</a>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> --membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
> OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
> Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> No unauthorised redistribution of this email
> <a
>
href="http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm">http://www.ozdat.com/ozdat
> online/index.htm</a>
> <a
>
href="http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html">http://www.ozdat.com/
> ozdatonline/listindex.html</a>
> <a
>
href="http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/">http://ww
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]/</a>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
>
>
>
> Nick,
> Bolt the front of the sump guard = through holes=20 drilled into the
curved
> braces beneath the front mounts of castor = arms, and=20 the rear to the
> gearbox cross member. Dont bolt to the engine cross = member,=20 let it
run
> lower than that so it has some "give" and doesn't stuff the = cross=20
> member if it gets hit hard - which it will. Some people use rubber =
> engine=20 mounts between the engine cross member and the sump guard. =
> Remember any=20 bolts that sit below the sump guard under the car will be
> removed = by a rock=20 one day (night?), unless the guard has a small
metal
> block welded in = front of=20 each bolt head. Use high tensile cap
screws,
> (unbreako bolts)=20 to increase the chances of being able to remove the
sump
> guard = after a=20 rally.
>
>
> From:=20 Ken=20 Abraham
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]=
> <DIV style="3D"FONT: " arial? 10pt>Sent: Wednesday, 4 April 2001 =
20:22=20
> PM
> <DIV style="3D"FONT: " arial? 10pt>Subject: sump guards
>
> List,
>
> Where are the best places to hang a sump = guard=20 off?
> I am particularly intersted in what to do around=20 the centre section,
near
> the engine cross-member.
>
> I will copy the works style Safari spec. Y-shaped = guard that=20 has rear
> mounts on the chassis rails under the footwells, but the = front and=20
> middle mounting has me stumped.
>
> The main things to consider are strength and = minimum loss of=20 ground
> clearance (the hard bit).
>
>
> Thanks,
> Nick
> 1978 Datsun=20 = Stanza
>
> --membersozdat------------------------------------= -------------------=20
> OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
> Send (un)subscribe requests = to=20 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Send submissions to=20 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> No unauthorised redistribution of = this=20 email
> http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm=20
> http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html=20
> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/=20 =
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------=
>
>
>
> _____
>
>
>
>
>
> --membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
> OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
> Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> No unauthorised redistribution of this email
> http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
> http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
No unauthorised redistribution of this email
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
