Damien,
A somewhat belated response to your post but hopefully still a bit helpful.
Most of the bits that you have or intend to use are common. The camber
adjusting pins aren't very strong although popular in the 70's on 1600/180B
they don't stand up to dirt work real well. The 180B control arms in a 1600
is not something that I've heard of in Aus, although 710 arms are used in
the 510 in the US.
On bump steer - quite often bump steer is misdiagnosed due to the condition
of other components in the frontend - I'd suggest you check to see if your
suspension height is below 320mm and/or your upper control arm pivot points
are above the tie rods knuckles so the "instant centre" is in the desired
position. If the radius rod bushes are worn then this allows the control
arms to flop about fore and aft and you will experience symptoms very
similar to bump steer as the caster and the toe will be all over the place
during cornering, especially if the road surface is bumpy. Worn radius rod
bushes will also cause a 1600 to dart around side to side under braking
which also is not very nice.
I found a tech article on bump steer which explains the condition in easily
understood terms. There is a diagram that unfortunately hasn't got struts
but you get the idea.
http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13
180B offset strut tops - There are/were heaps of them at Steve's at
Queanbeyan and not very expensive. You have to know what you're looking for
as there are heaps of Datto struts out there.
1600 wheel aligner - When Ian Moon (formally Centerpoint and Woden) hung up
the spanners a couple of years ago he left a big void in the ranks of ppl
who new early Datto geometry and was prepared to give you some service. I
have since found another guy at Belconnen Tyrepower who I and many Canberra
Datto owners have used. He's a rough diamond but he knows Dattos and will
discuss and recommend what is required to get you handling. He's not too exy
either which is a bonus.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of damien cm
Sent: Saturday, 28 April 2001 10:23
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:FRONT END GEOMETRY
Listers
Recently I was reading archives on front end geometry. This research has led
me to even more questions. Currently my 68' 1600 has 200B struts, 70' 1600
cross member, 180B adjustable camber pins and control
arms to match. The shocks are Tokico prodrag golds and progressive King
springs that are 2.5 cm lower than standard. I have 14 inch performance rims
with Yokahama A509 205/60/14 tyres. I have replaced the 68' steering arms
with the thicker ones from a later model.
When I push my 1600 hard through a corner, I experience bump steer.I HATE
bump steer.
This is my current plan for my front end:
*Replace the 70' cross member with my 68' cross member(higher holes for
mounting the control arm)
*Replacing the 180B adjustable camber pins for standard non-adjustable pins.
My reasoning behind this is that when the position of the joint for the
control arm to cross member is altered,it disturbs the original front end
geometry. Apparently, the steering arm and the control arm inner pivot
points line up, and are of equal length. At the moment, my camber pins are
giving maximum camber,therefore my pivot on the control arm is miles away
from the pivot point where the steering arm joins to the middle section of
the steering assembly(I think its called a 'draglink'?). The 180B adjustable
camber pins also give my car negative castor(control arm sits back due to
thickness of 180b adjustable camber pin).
*Replace my 200B strut tops with the offset strut tops from a 77' 180B,
giving me about 2 degree neg camber
*Replace the standard radius rods with adjustable ones. I think they are
made by SSS. They are not Torana.
*Lower my car.(I'm a sucker for that stealth, sleek streeter look!)
*Eventually put on some tasteful 15 inch rims with low profile tyres.
Am I on the right track? or has my research been in vain? Did I read the
info correctly,or maybe mis-understood some thing along the way?
I have noticed that the inner control arm bush on the 180B with the
adjustable camber pins is differnt to the normal ones, is this true?
If someone was'nt fortunate enough to have a 68' cross member at there
disposal, could they use the adjustable camber pins to have a higher pivot
point where the control arm meets the cross member??
Does any one in Canberra have any of the 180B offset strut tops for sale?
Where do you Canberra OZDATER'S take your cars for wheel alignments?
I understand that the front end of any car is delicate and any advice is
appreciated!!
Yours in handling,
Damien.
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