when you find out trevor let me know because I wodn't mind checking it out.
philip j shields
>From: "Pooley, Trevor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: RE: FJ20 fitting
>Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:11:47 +0930
>
>Yep a good idea Phillip. I will try to find out when he is racing again and
>check his car out then.
>
>Regards
>Trev
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Philip Shields [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>Sent: Friday, 4 May 2001 18:33
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: RE: FJ20 fitting
>
>
>trevor you could try talking to phill moriss at motec he may be able to
>advise you 03 9761 5050
>philip j shields
>
>
> >From: "Pooley, Trevor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: RE: FJ20 fitting
> >Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 13:16:55 +0930
> >
> >Eddie,
> >
> >Pics, yes please.
> >
> >I have checked out Jakes car (ozdat site) in the metal and measured the
> >mounts. The way you are doing your gearbox mounts sounds similar to his.
> >
> >My plan of attack so far is to get the gearbox crossmember done first
> >taking
> >into account engine position. When this is right I'll weld up some engine
> >mounts. Given that the sump and bellhousing sit really low I also have
> >thought about lowering the engine crossmember and building some sort of
> >protection like a sump guard. (I think I will need to keep the middle of
> >the
> >car off ripple strips from now on otherwise). I would of course have to
> >raise the Lower control arm mounts on the crossmember to stop bump steer.
> >
> >My car was an auto so I have made a hole in the floor using a hole saw
>and
> >then run two slots forward along the trans tunnel so the top of the box
> >clears the trans tunnel.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Trev
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> >Sent: Wednesday, 2 May 2001 11:52
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: FJ20 fitting
> >
> >
> >Trev,
> >
> >I have actually chopped and changed my mounts since the first attempt.
> >Initially I just sectioned the FJ brackets vertically to drop the motor
> >lower but have since decided to sit it as far back as I could so I
>chopped
> >them aparts and rewelded them. I haven't yet finished welding the
> >strengtheners back onto the brackets.
> >With mine the gearbox crossmember was no good so I had to make my own. I
> >used an 810 (200B) mounting sat on a straight channel made from 40mm box
> >section cut in half. I have since added a loop to clear the exhaust and
>two
> >extra brackets that bolt to the original factory crossmember mounts
> >I can e-mail you some pics if you want.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Eddie
> >England
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >www.ratdat.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Pooley, Trevor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 1:47 AM
> >Subject: FJ20 fitting
> >
> >
> > > G'day everyone,
> > >
> > > I am currently fitting my FJ. I am using what I think is a std 1600
> >gearbox
> > > crosmember. Only problem is I have no rubber isolater mounts which
>mount
> > > between the body and the crossmember.
> > >
> > > Does anyone in Melbourne have a set that I can borrow or buy?
> > >
> > > Is there an alternate mount on another model like 180B etc?
> > >
> > > I have already reversed my crosmember and will be doing something
> >similar
> >to
> > > Eddie ratdat for the engine mounts.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Trev
> > >
> >
> >
>
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