I slotted mine not so long ago. Firstly i slotted the xmemeber and pushed the
arms right to the top on both sides then tightened the bolts as much as
possible. At the aligners i think there was a very minor discrepency with the
toe ins on each side - but basically it was pretty good. Camber had been reduced
to about 1/2 deg neg. when stationary. This was all good for around 2 months b4
the bolts started to slip southward and soon were back in theyre orinigal
positions.
Ive since welded the washers up when i did the r31's and they havent moved a
bit!
Steve.
Cam wrote:
> I've read that the best way is to slot the cross member at the trailing arm
> locating points, re-fit and have settings made, then 'tack weld' the washers
> at the mounting points.
>
> Apparently they should hold the adjustment without the weld, but this just
> makes sure 100%.
>
> Cam.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "andrew smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 11:12 PM
> Subject: rear suspension
>
> > I've been considering slotting my rear crossmember on the 1600 to
> > improve traction by decreasing the neg camber and getting the toe a
> > little straight.I dont like the idea of leaving the slots adjustable as
> > i've heard people say the tend to move.Has anyone had this problem?Has
> > anyone welded the holes and redrilled to a set position.I've read the
> > info on the datsun sites but was curious to find how far the pivot
> > points were moved to get the desierable settings.
> > Andrew Smith
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