Cam,
For a twister like Winton the front looks pretty right to start with but the
toe setting in the rear is a problem as I see it. You only have 1' neg so
you should have around 290mm suspension height (not super low but perfect
for racing with street rubber) but usually a 1600 will only have 2mm toe at
that setting. Are you using stock A arms or have you changed them? Another
observation at the rear, with 4mm toe you will/could have some serious
caster in the rear as well which will hurt your braking efficiency which
will be hard to overcome without a bias bar and your exit speeds will be
potentially lower than you'll like and you'll probably blame the tires
(everyone does). Positive caster and toe in the rear of an IRS works in
exactly the opposite way to what it does in the front.
enjoy yourself, you'll learn a lot and keep it on the island - racers
weren't born that way, they learn gradually just like the rest of us.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cameron
Mckinnon
Sent: Friday, 6 July 2001 1:02
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Front End Alignment
After a bit of 'general' advice on front end alignment.
I'm taking the 1600 to Winton (very tight and twisty circuit) tomorrow for a
club sprint day.
I've decided to fit a welded Diff as the open R180 just doesn't give any
traction at all.
I've been told to expect understeer.
Currently I have the following settings and will be using road tyres;
2deg negative Camber, 5deg positive Caster - zero toe (front)
1 deg neg Camber, 4mm toe in (rear)
24mm swaybar front
18mm swaybar rear
I was thinking of 'winding out' the lower control arms another 2 turns (read
more negative camber) but this will cause the front wheels to 'toe out'. I
won't have time to get it wheel aligned so I suppose I could then wind out
the toe adjustment as well. (all getting very shonky at this point)
Any Ideas??
Cam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: rear X member mods
> Cam,
>
> hmmm well if you only cut thru the stone tray and it was rooted, how on
> earth has everyone else cut thru the X member? The bloke i spoke to wants
to
> plasma cut the hole etc etc... reinforce bits and pieces, but to me it
looks
> like it would take less than an hour or 2 for an experienced welder to do
> the entire job and $200 is far too expensive...
>
> I did try a sheet metal place but they wouldn't ahve a bar of it as it was
> to do with a car and didn't want any legal ramifications if things went
> wrong...
>
> looks like i either foot the bill or do it myself...
>
> cheers,
>
> Adam
>
>
> Um, you can have mine .....
>
> It's rooted tho, you couldn't cut paper with it now. Would you believe I
> only used it to cut two holes in my stone tray (air inlet for my pod
filter)
>
> It cost me about $50 and used it twice :(
>
> I ended up getting the local sheet metal place to plasma cut the opening
of
> the crossmember, re-weld in the 4" pipe, plasma cut the A arm mounting
> points to allow for adjustable camber all for $120. (which is still to
dear
> in my book but anyway)
>
> Just take it to a local sheet metal joint and pay them for the headaches.
>
> Cam
>
>
>
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