Cam,
Leave the suspension how it is at the moment as thats a good starting point.
If you are running street rubber pump them up a bit more. I run Bridgstone
520S tyres which are a club race spec tyre ie softer that street rubber but
still street legal. 38 to 40 psi tends to work best in them. Make sure you
check them after a run to get the hot pressures to around this level. Diff
wise run a 4.11 or 4.4 if you have one.
Have a good time.
Trev
-----Original Message-----
From: Cameron Mckinnon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, 6 July 2001 13:02
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Front End Alignment
After a bit of 'general' advice on front end alignment.
I'm taking the 1600 to Winton (very tight and twisty circuit) tomorrow for a
club sprint day.
I've decided to fit a welded Diff as the open R180 just doesn't give any
traction at all.
I've been told to expect understeer.
Currently I have the following settings and will be using road tyres;
2deg negative Camber, 5deg positive Caster - zero toe (front)
1 deg neg Camber, 4mm toe in (rear)
24mm swaybar front
18mm swaybar rear
I was thinking of 'winding out' the lower control arms another 2 turns (read
more negative camber) but this will cause the front wheels to 'toe out'. I
won't have time to get it wheel aligned so I suppose I could then wind out
the toe adjustment as well. (all getting very shonky at this point)
Any Ideas??
Cam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: rear X member mods
> Cam,
>
> hmmm well if you only cut thru the stone tray and it was rooted, how on
> earth has everyone else cut thru the X member? The bloke i spoke to wants
to
> plasma cut the hole etc etc... reinforce bits and pieces, but to me it
looks
> like it would take less than an hour or 2 for an experienced welder to do
> the entire job and $200 is far too expensive...
>
> I did try a sheet metal place but they wouldn't ahve a bar of it as it was
> to do with a car and didn't want any legal ramifications if things went
> wrong...
>
> looks like i either foot the bill or do it myself...
>
> cheers,
>
> Adam
>
>
> Um, you can have mine .....
>
> It's rooted tho, you couldn't cut paper with it now. Would you believe I
> only used it to cut two holes in my stone tray (air inlet for my pod
filter)
>
> It cost me about $50 and used it twice :(
>
> I ended up getting the local sheet metal place to plasma cut the opening
of
> the crossmember, re-weld in the 4" pipe, plasma cut the A arm mounting
> points to allow for adjustable camber all for $120. (which is still to
dear
> in my book but anyway)
>
> Just take it to a local sheet metal joint and pay them for the headaches.
>
> Cam
>
>
>
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