Cam,
yep, 270mm is more in line with 3-4' toe - you can see from that how you hit
the design extremities of the Datto rear geometry when you go below 290mm
even with slots, looks cool but doesn't help you when racing, still good fun
having a go though. The neg camber wont hurt you that much at Winton (or any
tight track). The locker may hurt a bit on slow corners but you will be able
to negate the push fairly well by increasing your front tyre pressures -
even by up to 10psi over the rear. Think about getting some adjustment into
your bars will be a big plus in this area, you're a bit limited with static
settings.
A pre-set stock prop valve may help, playing with different pads can have
the same effect, it's not one of those things I can say will or wont without
having driven the car, brake balance is one of the trickiest things to get
right and will gain or lose you heaps of time which ever way it turns out to
be (hp can never recover brake problems). If you find you have a tendency
for the car to weave under brakes when things get hot even when you've still
got good pedal feel, then you've got a balance problem to work out for next
time.
I don't know how serious you are, (I do know if you get the hots for this
activity, you'll get reasonably serious,) it's also a good idea for next
time out to have someone record some basic post race data on tyre pressure
increases; track temps etc, brakes OK/fried, tyres good/melted - you know
the sort of stuff Grant Denyer talks about.
At least they have sand traps at most circuits these days, in my day it was
an Armco - wack! then tears. I never had any serious offs at Winton that I
recall, one very embarrassing moment on the entry to the main straight, very
tricky corner that but it's changed now as I only ever run the Charger on
the old course, my favourite Vic circuit in the '70's.
All the best, you'll have a ball.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cameron
Mckinnon
Sent: Friday, 6 July 2001 3:17
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: FW: Front End Alignment
Thanks Terry,
The A arms are stockies but mounting points have been slotted. the guys
that did the rear alignment reacon they couldn't get the toe any closer to
zero. Rear height I think is about 270mm...I actually have closer to 2 neg
camber, once again, they couldn't get it any closer to zero.
I do have a front / rear proportioning valve fitted, will this help??
Re: youthful exuberance - yes well and truly aware of the possibility of
going off backwards into a sand trap and will modify my behaviour
accordingly :)
Cam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 2:48 PM
Subject: RE: Front End Alignment
> Cam,
>
> For a twister like Winton the front looks pretty right to start with but
the
> toe setting in the rear is a problem as I see it. You only have 1' neg so
> you should have around 290mm suspension height (not super low but perfect
> for racing with street rubber) but usually a 1600 will only have 2mm toe
at
> that setting. Are you using stock A arms or have you changed them? Another
> observation at the rear, with 4mm toe you will/could have some serious
> caster in the rear as well which will hurt your braking efficiency which
> will be hard to overcome without a bias bar and your exit speeds will be
> potentially lower than you'll like and you'll probably blame the tires
> (everyone does). Positive caster and toe in the rear of an IRS works in
> exactly the opposite way to what it does in the front.
>
> enjoy yourself, you'll learn a lot and keep it on the island - racers
> weren't born that way, they learn gradually just like the rest of us.
>
> regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cameron
> Mckinnon
> Sent: Friday, 6 July 2001 1:02
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Front End Alignment
>
>
> After a bit of 'general' advice on front end alignment.
>
> I'm taking the 1600 to Winton (very tight and twisty circuit) tomorrow for
a
> club sprint day.
>
> I've decided to fit a welded Diff as the open R180 just doesn't give any
> traction at all.
>
> I've been told to expect understeer.
>
> Currently I have the following settings and will be using road tyres;
>
> 2deg negative Camber, 5deg positive Caster - zero toe (front)
> 1 deg neg Camber, 4mm toe in (rear)
> 24mm swaybar front
> 18mm swaybar rear
>
> I was thinking of 'winding out' the lower control arms another 2 turns
(read
> more negative camber) but this will cause the front wheels to 'toe out'.
I
> won't have time to get it wheel aligned so I suppose I could then wind out
> the toe adjustment as well. (all getting very shonky at this point)
>
> Any Ideas??
>
> Cam
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 8:07 AM
> Subject: Re: rear X member mods
>
>
> > Cam,
> >
> > hmmm well if you only cut thru the stone tray and it was rooted, how on
> > earth has everyone else cut thru the X member? The bloke i spoke to
wants
> to
> > plasma cut the hole etc etc... reinforce bits and pieces, but to me it
> looks
> > like it would take less than an hour or 2 for an experienced welder to
do
> > the entire job and $200 is far too expensive...
> >
> > I did try a sheet metal place but they wouldn't ahve a bar of it as it
was
> > to do with a car and didn't want any legal ramifications if things went
> > wrong...
> >
> > looks like i either foot the bill or do it myself...
> >
> > cheers,
> >
> > Adam
> >
> >
> > Um, you can have mine .....
> >
> > It's rooted tho, you couldn't cut paper with it now. Would you believe I
> > only used it to cut two holes in my stone tray (air inlet for my pod
> filter)
> >
> > It cost me about $50 and used it twice :(
> >
> > I ended up getting the local sheet metal place to plasma cut the opening
> of
> > the crossmember, re-weld in the 4" pipe, plasma cut the A arm mounting
> > points to allow for adjustable camber all for $120. (which is still to
> dear
> > in my book but anyway)
> >
> > Just take it to a local sheet metal joint and pay them for the
headaches.
> >
> > Cam
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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