Use a stick welder with low hydrogen rods and plenty of current. This makes
it much cleaner with good penetration and less heating of the centre..
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Fitness
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 1:31 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: CIG locked diff no more....
I don't know the correct method.. but last one we did we cut a few
metal plates that fitted in around the gears and welded all around that...
Not sure how it lasted as the diff was sold with a car not long after...
but I am sure it would have been stronger than just welding the gears
together...
We used a Mig and the clean-up took ages.. next time round will use
the Oxy/Acet set I got recently... should give a heaps cleaner/stronger
weld...
James
Cam wrote:
> About two weeks ago I welded up the spider gears in an R160 (3.7) and
jammed
> it in the back of the Datto.
>
> Gave it a dozen hot laps at winton and have been driving it to and from
> work.
>
> I was getting a bit sus when I stopped hearing that squeek of the tyres on
> turning so jacked up the car tonight.
>
> Sure enough....diff not locked. The welding in the spider gears has
> obviously broken but I can't believe it's not making a hell noise. The
diff
> isn't even making a bit of a wine.
>
> I used a heap of current and heavy electrodes when I welded the gears, so
> I'm stuffed if I know whats gone wrong.
>
> Anyone have any tips as to the correct method? I have an open R180 (3.9)
> sitting under the bench and might give that a burn.
>
> Cam
>
--
________________________________________________________________________
James Fitness
Director
Data Scribe Australia Pty Ltd
http://www.datascribe.com.au
Computers and Supplies
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