after welding we used to tie to a tow bar and go around the block a few
times
seem the easiest to cool the bearings.
heath
----- Original Message -----
From: "brad" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, 17 July 2001 4:29
Subject: Re: CIG locked diff no more....
> ive always had good success by using a normal mig & dropping a piece of
> steel right in the center of the gears & fully welding it to fill the
center
> completely. try to weld it in stages not all @ once & leave it somewhere
to
> cool very slowly
>
> Brad
>
> http://go.to/burnouts
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2001 10:35 PM
> Subject: CIG locked diff no more....
>
>
> > About two weeks ago I welded up the spider gears in an R160 (3.7) and
> jammed
> > it in the back of the Datto.
> >
> > Gave it a dozen hot laps at winton and have been driving it to and from
> > work.
> >
> > I was getting a bit sus when I stopped hearing that squeek of the tyres
on
> > turning so jacked up the car tonight.
> >
> > Sure enough....diff not locked. The welding in the spider gears has
> > obviously broken but I can't believe it's not making a hell noise. The
> diff
> > isn't even making a bit of a wine.
> >
> > I used a heap of current and heavy electrodes when I welded the gears,
so
> > I'm stuffed if I know whats gone wrong.
> >
> > Anyone have any tips as to the correct method? I have an open R180
(3.9)
> > sitting under the bench and might give that a burn.
> >
> > Cam
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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