ive always had good success by using a normal mig & dropping a piece of
steel right in the center of the gears & fully welding it to fill the center
completely. try to weld it in stages not all @ once & leave it somewhere to
cool very slowly
Brad
http://go.to/burnouts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2001 10:35 PM
Subject: CIG locked diff no more....
> About two weeks ago I welded up the spider gears in an R160 (3.7) and
jammed
> it in the back of the Datto.
>
> Gave it a dozen hot laps at winton and have been driving it to and from
> work.
>
> I was getting a bit sus when I stopped hearing that squeek of the tyres on
> turning so jacked up the car tonight.
>
> Sure enough....diff not locked. The welding in the spider gears has
> obviously broken but I can't believe it's not making a hell noise. The
diff
> isn't even making a bit of a wine.
>
> I used a heap of current and heavy electrodes when I welded the gears, so
> I'm stuffed if I know whats gone wrong.
>
> Anyone have any tips as to the correct method? I have an open R180 (3.9)
> sitting under the bench and might give that a burn.
>
> Cam
>
>
>
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