hey, sorry i didn't quite explain what i meant, i know a bit about cars. It has an
elec. dizzy with bosch coil, extractors, twin su's etc. but what i meant was is there
anyway to tell what the gearbox, diff, brakes etc. are off? (like other model datsuns)
i will have another look for some numbers but last time i did i couldn't find much
info.
ill check again and then write back.
P.S. my diff spins left wheel, right wheel but most offen both. everytime they spin it
is just random, doesn't matter if i am on a slope or anything, sometimes it swaps from
left to right. i thought it might be buggered but it seems to be strong, no noises or
anything.
thanks
Scott
--- "Anthony Tuting" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>Thats a pretty broad question Scott but I'm sure we'll do our best to
>identify what we can. My knowledge is quite limited but below is some basic
>stuff you can check;
>
>BLOCK: You can tell what L series engine it has in it by looking in your
>engine bay and on the right hand side of the engine block you will see the
>raised letters, L20B or L18. Rarer inscriptions are L18W and Z20.
>
>HEAD: Then go to the left hand side of the engine and look just below spark
>plug number 1 and see if there is raised lettering saying 'NISSAN JAPAN A87'
>or W53 etc, others on the list have a comprehensive listing of cylinder head
>numbers adn their compressions.
>
>GEARBOX: Your 5 speed sounds like a stumpy skyline box but I have heard of
>people using old toyota celica g/boxes too.
>
>CARBIE: With the air cleaner off you should be able to see if the standard
>carbie is installed, 1 round hole straight down toward the ground sounds
>like a L20 standard carbie, and 2 times 1.5 inch holes pointing in towards
>the engine sound like twin SU's.
>
>EXHAUST: If the 4 exhaust pipes come together to 1 just onder the carbie
>then it seems it is a stock type exhaust manifold but if 2 of them come into
>1 and then that joins to the other 2 that came into 1 then you have
>extractors.
>
>DIFF: For $1000 it is very unlikely that your diff is LSD but since you say
>it has been painted blue, maybe the centre has been changed or some other
>internal work has been done to it (welded, rebuild).
>
>FUEL PUMP: On the left hand side of the block at the front, above the
>alternator, if there is a metal tin (shoe polish shape tin) then you have a
>standard type L18 CAM driven mechanical fuel pump. The L20 version is a
>little larger with more screws around the outside edge.
>
>Distributor: You probably have the standard points style dissy, open the
>dissy cap and look around the rotor button, there should be a little
>cylinder with a wire connected to it and also one a bit bigger ont he
>outside of the distributor, that is a stardard type dissy. An electronic one
>will have a 4 star prong shape below the rotor button and no little
>cylinders.
>
>Brakes: Are a bit harder to diagnose (for me anyway) I'll leave it to
>someone else to analyse.
>
>Give those a go and that should give you a better understanding of what
>you've just bought.
>
>Cheers,
>Anthony
>
>
>From: Scott Lankford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Running Gear
>Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 18:58:51 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Hey list,
> I own a 71 1600 and was wondering if there is any way to tell what
>running gear i have. I purchased the car with the mods done, but even the
>guy i bought it off was unsure. Everything has hitachi stamped on it. The
>gearbox is a 5 speed with reverse below 5th. I can't seem to see any
>markings on it. Also everything is blue, Block, gearbox, diff etc. I know
>this isn't much information but the car cost $1000, so are there any usuall
>mod's for that price range, a common cheap upgrade maybe?
>It is running an L20b and the diff is lsd. Does anyone know what to look out
>for or how to tell what the parts are off? sorry if this isn't much
>information, but it is all i can find.
>
>Thanks
>Scott
>
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