my girlfriends old auto eski used to run on, just stop it in drive, wont do it then ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 1:14 PM Subject: RE: Bluebird probs!!!
> Justin, > > "Running on" with SU's can be a problem and with an auto there's a bit of a > problem with doing a clutch kill. The stock carbie on a late L20B (Bluey) > has a solenoid in the fuel line that when the ignition is off it blocks the > supply of fuel into the venturi - no fuel, no run period. SU's don't have > such a device so if there is some form of ignition in the cylinder then they > will run on especially if the idle is 800 rpm or higher as the air supply is > about right. > > There are a number of ways to stop it happening. If it hasn't got air > conditiong then you can fit a fast idler off the a/c model to the throttle > shaft and trigger the device with ignition power. You then set the idle > screws on the carbies at say 500 rpm and the idle speed by the a/c idler to > 800-900 or whatever it's happy at. When you kill the ignition the throttle > shuts instantly blocking the air flow - problem fixed. > > Another way and it's along the same lines and suitable for a/c if fitted. > Get an adjustable idler solenoid off a VB Commy carbie and make up a bracket > for it to actuate the throttle bar and these things also work off the > ignition. Much the same idea as the factory a/c fast idler method but with > a/c both fast idle systems work and no run on. I've used both of these > methods on L18SSS 9.5:1 engines and they each worked a treat. > > Another way that I have seen is by pinching the idle control system off a MG > or Triumph TC. The British took a different approach as the device used > kills the manifold vac by creating a massive air leak when the ignition is > turned off. It's a valve fitted to a hose connected to the manifold (much > like the brake booster) that has a solenoid fitted that closes the valve > when ign is on. It works as it kills the airflow into the chambers when the > valve opens at ign off. > > Timing. > Ideally with SU's you should set more initial advance than with a downdraft. > I'd start at 14 degrees and if the engine can take it without pinging try up > to 18 degrees as the more initial advance you can supply to SU's the better > performance you'll extract. Problem is the single carb dizzy is designed for > 10 degrees initial and 25 degrees mechanical advance, so if you up the > initial by 4-8 degrees then this is added on to the total advance which > could cause pinging around max torque revs (~4000 rpm) and higher. Couple of > things you can do, i.e. try running Optimax 98 or similar fuel or more > difficult you can modify the dizzy to limit the mechanical advance to give > only 18-20 degrees. > > Balance valve? > Don't think so. What are these SU's off? Some late model Nissan engines have > a pollution style SU that has an altitude adjustment valve again just like > the Hitachi downdraft that you removed in a vac line between them. The DD > have a small rubber stop in the baseplate that when removed exposes a small > adjusting screw. All it does is allows more/less air flow depending if > you're at sea level or at altitude - they're a good idea in theory but the > valves jam and you're better off without it. > > > enjoy the ride > regards > Terry > > > > > > > Justin > > > > > > > Hi listers, > > > > About 4 weeks ago i put my twin sidedraught hitachi's onto my 84 > > bluebird > > > > auto wagon (goes way way better now) & after mucking around alot > trying > > to > > > > get everything running well it is now .. well it has been for a few > > weeks > > > > now .. running on when i turn it off... now my dad who has been > mucking > > > > around with these things for yonks ... is going to have look at it > this > > > > arvo .. but we believe it has somthing to do with a valve that runs on > a > > > > tube that goes between the pipes on the manifold which has something > to > > do > > > > with emission control & my dad says he has never seen it before ... > what > > > > it is?.. it is a large screw with a spring on it.. & when wound down > > > > lowers the idle ... & up takes the idle up obviously .. but i was > > > > wondering if anyone could tell me if this has anything to do with the > > > > engine running on when i turn it off & if so.. what has to be done to > > fix > > > > it .. & if not ... what could it be ..hopefully dad can fix it.. but > any > > > > help would be great .. also does anyone have any idea on how much a > set > > of > > > > rear springs would cost for a bluebird wagon ... cos mine are buggered > > .. > > > > anyway ..any help would be great .. & i'm sorry about the long > email!!! > > > > Thanx > > > > Matt Cherry > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- > > > > OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- > > > > Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > No unauthorised redistribution of this email > > > > http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm > > > > http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html > > > > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
