You could I spose. These are only a coil type solenoid that shots a bar out the end when you give it 12v.
TR -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Andrew Greenbury Sent: Thursday, 14 March 2002 11:24 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Bluebird probs!!! Terry, Possible to use this as a form of immobiliser?? Andrew > What Zac said, but that's a fuel solenoid and the one I'm talking about off > the Dunny carbie is an air solenoid. The successful fitting of a fuel > solenoid in a SU carbie would be an engineering feat in itself. > > There are a lot of quirks with a Nissan that runs on. The '71 1600 was very > prone to run on as there is discontinuity in the ignition switch with the > ballast resister bypass starting feature between the acc/ign/run circuits. > This causes the coil to get power while ever the alternator is charging even > when the ignition is turned of, so if your idle is high the chambers still > get spark, and if the idle is high you will get enough air/fuel to run the > engine, I've seen a 180BSSS run on for over 30 seconds. The problem went > away in the '72 1600 as they fitted a far superior ignition switch when they > went lockable steering style, but the problem came back again in the early > 180B. They dropped the SU's in the Aus SSS just when a fix for it was under > negotiation with an Aussie engineer, poor bloke would have spewed as he was > about to get rich. It's a bit exy to fix this ignition quirk with a choke at > the coil, but one fairly economical way was to fit a Soobie ignition switch > or a even remote starter circuit like on a race car (we had a thread on SR's > on this recently). This wiring quirk makes these cars difficult to start a > turbo as the EMS sees the break in the ignition after start and the engine > stalls. We've had a few cases of this come up on this list. You can actually > fix this also with relays and diodes, capacitors etc but it's not the > easiest way by a long shot. > > I still reckon the cheapest most effective way to stop it is to fit a fast > idle solenoid. > > regards > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Zac Campbell > Sent: Wednesday, 13 March 2002 12:44 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Bluebird probs!!! > > > I havent ever played with a stock datto carb but that solenoid on other > types of carbys is internal. > > zac > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Matt Cherry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 10:40 AM > Subject: Re: Bluebird probs!!! > > > > Terry .. thankyou very muchly for that peice of info ..... it has shed > alot > > of light on the situation .... & come to think of it .. i know where one > of > > those solenoids are .. but as andrew said.. is the solenoid internal on > the > > l20 carby? or external cos if it is externaly.. it could make things alot > > easier... but tomake things better... i could always just do the manual > > conversion to stop it doing it !!! i will do the conversion .. but hat is > > planned for abit later on now !!..... anyway thankyou for your help ... > i'll > > propose it to the old man & work on it from there !! > > Matt > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 8:14 AM > > Subject: RE: Bluebird probs!!! > > > > > > > Justin, > > > > > > "Running on" with SU's can be a problem and with an auto there's a bit > of > > a > > > problem with doing a clutch kill. The stock carbie on a late L20B > (Bluey) > > > has a solenoid in the fuel line that when the ignition is off it blocks > > the > > > supply of fuel into the venturi - no fuel, no run period. SU's don't > have > > > such a device so if there is some form of ignition in the cylinder then > > they > > > will run on especially if the idle is 800 rpm or higher as the air > supply > > is > > > about right. > > > > > > There are a number of ways to stop it happening. If it hasn't got air > > > conditiong then you can fit a fast idler off the a/c model to the > throttle > > > shaft and trigger the device with ignition power. You then set the idle > > > screws on the carbies at say 500 rpm and the idle speed by the a/c idler > > to > > > 800-900 or whatever it's happy at. When you kill the ignition the > throttle > > > shuts instantly blocking the air flow - problem fixed. > > > > > > Another way and it's along the same lines and suitable for a/c if > fitted. > > > Get an adjustable idler solenoid off a VB Commy carbie and make up a > > bracket > > > for it to actuate the throttle bar and these things also work off the > > > ignition. Much the same idea as the factory a/c fast idler method but > with > > > a/c both fast idle systems work and no run on. I've used both of these > > > methods on L18SSS 9.5:1 engines and they each worked a treat. > > > > > > Another way that I have seen is by pinching the idle control system off > a > > MG > > > or Triumph TC. The British took a different approach as the device used > > > kills the manifold vac by creating a massive air leak when the ignition > is > > > turned off. It's a valve fitted to a hose connected to the manifold > (much > > > like the brake booster) that has a solenoid fitted that closes the valve > > > when ign is on. It works as it kills the airflow into the chambers when > > the > > > valve opens at ign off. > > > > > > Timing. > > > Ideally with SU's you should set more initial advance than with a > > downdraft. > > > I'd start at 14 degrees and if the engine can take it without pinging > try > > up > > > to 18 degrees as the more initial advance you can supply to SU's the > > better > > > performance you'll extract. Problem is the single carb dizzy is designed > > for > > > 10 degrees initial and 25 degrees mechanical advance, so if you up the > > > initial by 4-8 degrees then this is added on to the total advance which > > > could cause pinging around max torque revs (~4000 rpm) and higher. > Couple > > of > > > things you can do, i.e. try running Optimax 98 or similar fuel or more > > > difficult you can modify the dizzy to limit the mechanical advance to > give > > > only 18-20 degrees. > > > > > > Balance valve? > > > Don't think so. What are these SU's off? Some late model Nissan engines > > have > > > a pollution style SU that has an altitude adjustment valve again just > like > > > the Hitachi downdraft that you removed in a vac line between them. The > DD > > > have a small rubber stop in the baseplate that when removed exposes a > > small > > > adjusting screw. All it does is allows more/less air flow depending if > > > you're at sea level or at altitude - they're a good idea in theory but > the > > > valves jam and you're better off without it. > > > > > > > > > enjoy the ride > > > regards > > > Terry > > > > > > > > > > > > > Justin > > > > > > > > > > > Hi listers, > > > > > > About 4 weeks ago i put my twin sidedraught hitachi's onto my 84 > > > > bluebird > > > > > > auto wagon (goes way way better now) & after mucking around alot > > > trying > > > > to > > > > > > get everything running well it is now .. well it has been for a > few > > > > weeks > > > > > > now .. running on when i turn it off... now my dad who has been > > > mucking > > > > > > around with these things for yonks ... is going to have look at it > > > this > > > > > > arvo .. but we believe it has somthing to do with a valve that > runs > > on > > > a > > > > > > tube that goes between the pipes on the manifold which has > something > > > to > > > > do > > > > > > with emission control & my dad says he has never seen it before > ... > > > what > > > > > > it is?.. it is a large screw with a spring on it.. & when wound > down > > > > > > lowers the idle ... & up takes the idle up obviously .. but i was > > > > > > wondering if anyone could tell me if this has anything to do with > > the > > > > > > engine running on when i turn it off & if so.. what has to be done > > to > > > > fix > > > > > > it .. & if not ... what could it be ..hopefully dad can fix it.. > but > > > any > > > > > > help would be great .. also does anyone have any idea on how much > a > > > set > > > > of > > > > > > rear springs would cost for a bluebird wagon ... cos mine are > > buggered > > > > .. > > > > > > anyway ..any help would be great .. & i'm sorry about the long > > > email!!! > > > > > > Thanx > > > > > > Matt Cherry > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- > > > > > > Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > No unauthorised redistribution of this email > > > > > > http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm > > > > > > http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html > > > > > > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
