Terry .. thankyou very muchly for that peice of info ..... it has shed alot
of light on the situation .... & come to think of it .. i know where one of
those solenoids are .. but as andrew said.. is the solenoid internal on the
l20 carby? or external cos if it is externaly.. it could make things alot
easier... but tomake things better... i could always just do the manual
conversion to stop it doing it !!! i will do the conversion .. but hat is
planned for abit later on now !!..... anyway thankyou for your help ... i'll
propose it to the old man & work on it from there !!
Matt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: RE: Bluebird probs!!!


> Justin,
>
> "Running on" with SU's can be a problem and with an auto there's a bit of
a
> problem with doing a clutch kill. The stock carbie on a late L20B (Bluey)
> has a solenoid in the fuel line that when the ignition is off it blocks
the
> supply of fuel into the venturi - no fuel, no run period. SU's don't have
> such a device so if there is some form of ignition in the cylinder then
they
> will run on especially if the idle is 800 rpm or higher as the air supply
is
> about right.
>
> There are a number of ways to stop it happening. If it hasn't got air
> conditiong then you can fit a fast idler off the a/c model to the throttle
> shaft and trigger the device with ignition power. You then set the idle
> screws on the carbies at say 500 rpm and the idle speed by the a/c idler
to
> 800-900 or whatever it's happy at. When you kill the ignition the throttle
> shuts instantly blocking the air flow - problem fixed.
>
> Another way and it's along the same lines and suitable for a/c if fitted.
> Get an adjustable idler solenoid off a VB Commy carbie and make up a
bracket
> for it to actuate the throttle bar and these things also work off the
> ignition. Much the same idea as the factory a/c fast idler method but with
> a/c both fast idle systems work and no run on. I've used both of these
> methods on L18SSS 9.5:1 engines and they each worked a treat.
>
> Another way that I have seen is by pinching the idle control system off a
MG
> or Triumph TC. The British took a different approach as the device used
> kills the manifold vac by creating a massive air leak when the ignition is
> turned off. It's a valve fitted to a hose connected to the manifold (much
> like the brake booster) that has a solenoid fitted that closes the valve
> when ign is on. It works as it kills the airflow into the chambers when
the
> valve opens at ign off.
>
> Timing.
> Ideally with SU's you should set more initial advance than with a
downdraft.
> I'd start at 14 degrees and if the engine can take it without pinging try
up
> to 18 degrees as the more initial advance you can supply to SU's the
better
> performance you'll extract. Problem is the single carb dizzy is designed
for
> 10 degrees initial and 25 degrees mechanical advance, so if you up the
> initial by 4-8 degrees then this is added on to the total advance which
> could cause pinging around max torque revs (~4000 rpm) and higher. Couple
of
> things you can do, i.e. try running Optimax 98 or similar fuel or more
> difficult you can modify the dizzy to limit the mechanical advance to give
> only 18-20 degrees.
>
> Balance valve?
> Don't think so. What are these SU's off? Some late model Nissan engines
have
> a pollution style SU that has an altitude adjustment valve again just like
> the Hitachi downdraft that you removed in a vac line between them. The DD
> have a small rubber stop in the baseplate that when removed exposes a
small
> adjusting screw. All it does is allows more/less air flow depending if
> you're at sea level or at altitude - they're a good idea in theory but the
> valves jam and you're better off without it.
>
>
> enjoy the ride
> regards
> Terry
>
> > >
> > > Justin
> > >
> > > > Hi listers,
> > > > About 4 weeks ago i put my twin sidedraught hitachi's onto my 84
> > bluebird
> > > > auto wagon (goes way way better now) & after mucking around alot
> trying
> > to
> > > > get everything running well it is now .. well it has been for a few
> > weeks
> > > > now .. running on when i turn it off... now my dad who has been
> mucking
> > > > around with these things for yonks ... is going to have look at it
> this
> > > > arvo .. but we believe it has somthing to do with a valve that runs
on
> a
> > > > tube that goes between the pipes on the manifold which has something
> to
> > do
> > > > with emission control & my dad says he has never seen it before ...
> what
> > > > it is?.. it is a large screw with a spring on it.. & when wound down
> > > > lowers the idle ... & up takes the idle up obviously .. but i was
> > > > wondering if anyone could tell me if this has anything to do with
the
> > > > engine running on when i turn it off & if so.. what has to be done
to
> > fix
> > > > it .. & if not ... what could it be ..hopefully dad can fix it.. but
> any
> > > > help would be great .. also does anyone have any idea on how much a
> set
> > of
> > > > rear springs would cost for a bluebird wagon ... cos mine are
buggered
> > ..
> > > > anyway ..any help would be great .. & i'm sorry about the long
> email!!!
> > > > Thanx
> > > > Matt Cherry
> > > >
> > >
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