Really?? Everyone always tells me that it is a job for pros, but then
again, I dont think any of them have ever tried to do it. I just got
my Victoria British catalogue, and apart from being blown away by the
rediculous prices, I was intruiged by that glass topped spark plug
they sell so that you can see the colour of the flame when tuning,
seemed interesting.

Sunday, May 19, 2002, 12:06:56 PM, you wrote:

SL> Apart from a length of hose and the calibrated ear :-), I never used 
SL> any special equipment for the Hitachi's.  Simply remove the 
SL> aircleaner, and listen (using the hose in the carb inlet) until they 
SL> 'sound' the same and idle is stable.  If you want, a UniSyn or 
SL> something like that will probably give a really accurate synch, but I 
SL> found my method worked quite well.....



>>Hello Steve,
>>
>>How hard is it to balance the carbs on a zed? What is the equipment
>>required worth to buy?
>>
>>Sunday, May 19, 2002, 11:37:25 AM, you wrote:
>>
>>>>Hi list,
>>>>
>>>>one of the welsh plugs on my 240z is leaking, its the one on the
>>>>pasanger side closest to the firewall so it is farely easy to
>>>>access, are these easy to change or should i get someone who knows
>>>>what they are doing to do it?
>>>>
>>
>>SL> Not difficult to do, but if your not sure perhaps get someone to 
>>help who has.
>>
>>SL> This is the procedure I've used with success: using a suitable drift,
>>SL> tap on one edge of the welsh plug to eventually push it in (that's
>>SL> right _in_) and you can rotate the plug 90 deg (so that an edge is
>>SL> facing out of the block), then grab the edge of the plug with a pair
>>SL> of multi-grips and lever the thing out.  Don't worry if you knock the
>>SL> whole plug into the block, it can't go far.....
>>
>>SL> Putting the new plug in is just a matter of making sure all mating
>>SL> surfaces are clean (esp in the block), smearing the edge of the plug
>>SL> with some silcone sealer (_small_ amount), then tapping the thing in
>>SL> place using something like a socket that closely matches the ID of
>>SL> the plug.  Try to keep the thing as square as possible.
>>
>>SL> Few other things to think about:
>>
>>SL> 1. if one plug is leaking the rest will be in a similar condition, or
>>SL> close to it.....so perhaps do them all (??)
>>
>>SL> 2. use brass welsh plugs as replacements - the ones on the side of
>>SL> the block are 35mm OD, from memory.
>>
>>SL> 3. it will probably be easist to remove all the manifolding to get to
>>SL> the plug (I'm assuming a RHD car here).  It is _very_ common to find
>>SL> the rear exhuast manifold stud to be broken, and sometimes the front
>>SL> as well.....
>>
>>
>>
>>>>Also I have the standard twin hitachis on it and was wondering
>>>>whether it is worth reconditioning them or whether I should just get
>>>>some webbers? its a pain atm to start as it just keeps dying like
>>>>its starving for fuel...  And just another thing, sometimes you
>>>>reveal alot of problems when you steam clean your engine :) I've had
>>>>both heater hoses go on me... maybe this could be a vacuum pipe or
>>>>something too?
>>
>>SL> The Hitachi 'SU's' are actually a pretty reliable carb, and not bad
>>SL> as a performance carb either with the right needles, even on a
>>SL> 'worked' L28 (there are a few examples of 100+ RWkW engines in the
>>SL> NDSOC using these carbs).  Personally I would say that, unless your
>>SL> engine is highly worked, I would stick with the SU's (of course, if
>>SL> they are totally knackered that is a different  matter, but a good
>>SL> set of triples is going to set you back around $1000).  One of the
>>SL> problem areas with the Hitachi's is that the throttle shafts and
>>SL> bushes wear leading to leaks and erratic running, and this can be
>>SL> expensive to repair.
>>
>>SL> If the engine hoses are this bad, I'd suggest going over the thing
>>SL> with a fine toothh comb and even complete replacement (consider it
>>SL> insurance....)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>Best regards,
>>  Bob                            mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>




-- 
Best regards,
 Bob                            mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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