>Really?? Everyone always tells me that it is a job for pros, but then >again, I dont think any of them have ever tried to do it. I just got >my Victoria British catalogue, and apart from being blown away by the >rediculous prices, I was intruiged by that glass topped spark plug >they sell so that you can see the colour of the flame when tuning, >seemed interesting.
Colortune (??)...something of gimmick AFAIC....after all, on a car at least, how do you view this thing under load (while driving) ?? which is where the real story of tuning is told. Also using such for tuning the idle seems somewhat overkill to me... Note the method I described for carb balance is part of the tuning process, but for the important part of getting mixtures right I've relied on 'reading' spark plugs (plug chops). Tho' it must be said that now I have my own Motec AF meter.. :-) > >Sunday, May 19, 2002, 12:06:56 PM, you wrote: > >SL> Apart from a length of hose and the calibrated ear :-), I never used >SL> any special equipment for the Hitachi's. Simply remove the >SL> aircleaner, and listen (using the hose in the carb inlet) until they >SL> 'sound' the same and idle is stable. If you want, a UniSyn or >SL> something like that will probably give a really accurate synch, but I >SL> found my method worked quite well..... > > > >>>Hello Steve, >>> >>>How hard is it to balance the carbs on a zed? What is the equipment >>>required worth to buy? >>> >>>Sunday, May 19, 2002, 11:37:25 AM, you wrote: >>> >>>>>Hi list, >>>>> >>>>>one of the welsh plugs on my 240z is leaking, its the one on the >>>>>pasanger side closest to the firewall so it is farely easy to >>>>>access, are these easy to change or should i get someone who knows >>>>>what they are doing to do it? >>>>> >>> >>>SL> Not difficult to do, but if your not sure perhaps get someone to >>>help who has. >>> >>>SL> This is the procedure I've used with success: using a suitable drift, >>>SL> tap on one edge of the welsh plug to eventually push it in (that's >>>SL> right _in_) and you can rotate the plug 90 deg (so that an edge is >>>SL> facing out of the block), then grab the edge of the plug with a pair >>>SL> of multi-grips and lever the thing out. Don't worry if you knock the >>>SL> whole plug into the block, it can't go far..... >>> >>>SL> Putting the new plug in is just a matter of making sure all mating >>>SL> surfaces are clean (esp in the block), smearing the edge of the plug >>>SL> with some silcone sealer (_small_ amount), then tapping the thing in >>>SL> place using something like a socket that closely matches the ID of >>>SL> the plug. Try to keep the thing as square as possible. >>> >>>SL> Few other things to think about: >>> >>>SL> 1. if one plug is leaking the rest will be in a similar condition, or >>>SL> close to it.....so perhaps do them all (??) >>> >>>SL> 2. use brass welsh plugs as replacements - the ones on the side of >>>SL> the block are 35mm OD, from memory. >>> >>>SL> 3. it will probably be easist to remove all the manifolding to get to >>>SL> the plug (I'm assuming a RHD car here). It is _very_ common to find >>>SL> the rear exhuast manifold stud to be broken, and sometimes the front >>>SL> as well..... >>> >>> >>> >>>>>Also I have the standard twin hitachis on it and was wondering >>>>>whether it is worth reconditioning them or whether I should just get >>>>>some webbers? its a pain atm to start as it just keeps dying like >>>>>its starving for fuel... And just another thing, sometimes you >>>>>reveal alot of problems when you steam clean your engine :) I've had >>>>>both heater hoses go on me... maybe this could be a vacuum pipe or >>>>>something too? >>> >>>SL> The Hitachi 'SU's' are actually a pretty reliable carb, and not bad >>>SL> as a performance carb either with the right needles, even on a >>>SL> 'worked' L28 (there are a few examples of 100+ RWkW engines in the >>>SL> NDSOC using these carbs). Personally I would say that, unless your >>>SL> engine is highly worked, I would stick with the SU's (of course, if > >>SL> they are totally knackered that is a different matter, but a good >>>SL> set of triples is going to set you back around $1000). One of the >>>SL> problem areas with the Hitachi's is that the throttle shafts and >>>SL> bushes wear leading to leaks and erratic running, and this can be >>>SL> expensive to repair. >>> >>>SL> If the engine hoses are this bad, I'd suggest going over the thing >>>SL> with a fine toothh comb and even complete replacement (consider it >>>SL> insurance....) >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>-- >>>Best regards, >>> Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >>> > > > > >-- >Best regards, > Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
