hi, i bought that glass top sparkplug about 8 years ago, and beleive me, its a utter load of crap.
mark k ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 12:20 PM Subject: Re[3]: 240z welsh plug > Really?? Everyone always tells me that it is a job for pros, but then > again, I dont think any of them have ever tried to do it. I just got > my Victoria British catalogue, and apart from being blown away by the > rediculous prices, I was intruiged by that glass topped spark plug > they sell so that you can see the colour of the flame when tuning, > seemed interesting. > > Sunday, May 19, 2002, 12:06:56 PM, you wrote: > > SL> Apart from a length of hose and the calibrated ear :-), I never used > SL> any special equipment for the Hitachi's. Simply remove the > SL> aircleaner, and listen (using the hose in the carb inlet) until they > SL> 'sound' the same and idle is stable. If you want, a UniSyn or > SL> something like that will probably give a really accurate synch, but I > SL> found my method worked quite well..... > > > > >>Hello Steve, > >> > >>How hard is it to balance the carbs on a zed? What is the equipment > >>required worth to buy? > >> > >>Sunday, May 19, 2002, 11:37:25 AM, you wrote: > >> > >>>>Hi list, > >>>> > >>>>one of the welsh plugs on my 240z is leaking, its the one on the > >>>>pasanger side closest to the firewall so it is farely easy to > >>>>access, are these easy to change or should i get someone who knows > >>>>what they are doing to do it? > >>>> > >> > >>SL> Not difficult to do, but if your not sure perhaps get someone to > >>help who has. > >> > >>SL> This is the procedure I've used with success: using a suitable drift, > >>SL> tap on one edge of the welsh plug to eventually push it in (that's > >>SL> right _in_) and you can rotate the plug 90 deg (so that an edge is > >>SL> facing out of the block), then grab the edge of the plug with a pair > >>SL> of multi-grips and lever the thing out. Don't worry if you knock the > >>SL> whole plug into the block, it can't go far..... > >> > >>SL> Putting the new plug in is just a matter of making sure all mating > >>SL> surfaces are clean (esp in the block), smearing the edge of the plug > >>SL> with some silcone sealer (_small_ amount), then tapping the thing in > >>SL> place using something like a socket that closely matches the ID of > >>SL> the plug. Try to keep the thing as square as possible. > >> > >>SL> Few other things to think about: > >> > >>SL> 1. if one plug is leaking the rest will be in a similar condition, or > >>SL> close to it.....so perhaps do them all (??) > >> > >>SL> 2. use brass welsh plugs as replacements - the ones on the side of > >>SL> the block are 35mm OD, from memory. > >> > >>SL> 3. it will probably be easist to remove all the manifolding to get to > >>SL> the plug (I'm assuming a RHD car here). It is _very_ common to find > >>SL> the rear exhuast manifold stud to be broken, and sometimes the front > >>SL> as well..... > >> > >> > >> > >>>>Also I have the standard twin hitachis on it and was wondering > >>>>whether it is worth reconditioning them or whether I should just get > >>>>some webbers? its a pain atm to start as it just keeps dying like > >>>>its starving for fuel... And just another thing, sometimes you > >>>>reveal alot of problems when you steam clean your engine :) I've had > >>>>both heater hoses go on me... maybe this could be a vacuum pipe or > >>>>something too? > >> > >>SL> The Hitachi 'SU's' are actually a pretty reliable carb, and not bad > >>SL> as a performance carb either with the right needles, even on a > >>SL> 'worked' L28 (there are a few examples of 100+ RWkW engines in the > >>SL> NDSOC using these carbs). Personally I would say that, unless your > >>SL> engine is highly worked, I would stick with the SU's (of course, if > >>SL> they are totally knackered that is a different matter, but a good > >>SL> set of triples is going to set you back around $1000). One of the > >>SL> problem areas with the Hitachi's is that the throttle shafts and > >>SL> bushes wear leading to leaks and erratic running, and this can be > >>SL> expensive to repair. > >> > >>SL> If the engine hoses are this bad, I'd suggest going over the thing > >>SL> with a fine toothh comb and even complete replacement (consider it > >>SL> insurance....) > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>-- > >>Best regards, > >> Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> > > > > > -- > Best regards, > Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
