--- Richard Clough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Both
the 240K and MR30 Skyline trailing arms will
> bolt on to 180B and 1600
> rear crossmembers.
> The shocker mounts are different on the 240K arms
> (basically they bolt up
> like a 1600 shocker mounted upside down) and
> shockers fitted in their
> standard position will foul any disc brakes you may
> try to fit.

ok well i intend on getting r31 rear discs.

 The MR30
> Skyline Coupe arms have disc fitted but have
> coilover shockers, not the
> coil-in- trailing arm like the previous models.  If
> you want to try the 240K
> arms then you do get slightly larger rear drums and
> bigger wheel bearings.
> I have just dismantled some 240K trailing arms today
> and there are a few
> parts common to a 1600.

so i would keep the larger bearings? does using the
240k arms mean that it is hard to use the r31 discs?
ie like the 1600 rear disc conversion.

> 
> 180B cross members look identical to and will bolt
> into a 1600, but some
> people say that the wheels will hang at the wrong
> angles and give a slightly
> wider track.  Anyone confirm/deny this?

mean ok, well i doubt i want this.

> 
> On the diffs, I think there are 2 types of R200 and
> you need the long nose
> type to bolt into a 1600 cross member.  I believe
> you will need to panel
> beat the spare wheel well to fit it in.

with both types of r200s or just the long nose one??

  If you use
> an R180 it bolts in
> without modifications and you should get a long life
> with it.

yeah trouble is finding one cheap.

 
> Diff Ratio's.
> With an SR20T I would use a 3.54 diff or even taller
> (lower numerical ratio)
> as you want to allow the engine to pull from low
> revs and use the turbo.
> 4.44's and above are great for drag racing and
> rallying, where you want lots
> of acceleration from an engine at high revs. But
> these ratios are boring
> when you are doing 4 grand plus for hours, at 100KPH
> on the highway.

ok sounds good


> 
> A turbo's great advantage is mid range torque.
> so you need a taller diff.
> 
> LSD Clutch type or Viscous?
> Depends on the use.  Viscous is fine on the road and
> easier to find. For
> competition use a clutch type, they can be adjusted
> for slip  - not cheap
> though.

ok so either way it doesn't really matter??
whatever is cheapest


also any idea on how to move the engine about?
an sr20t that is from the deck to a trailer etc to the
new home??


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Little" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, 1 July 2002 16:19 PM
> Subject: little help...
> 
> 
> > guys
> >
> > couple of questions.
> >
> > firstly i am looking at a diff kit for fitting an
> r200
> > into a 1600.
> >
> > guy has diff, 240k arms and adjusted moustache
> bar.
> > Now he says that the work was done to fit it to a
> > 180b....will it fit a 1600?
> >
> > also what sort of diff should i be getting, i want
> an
> > LSD...should it be a viscous type or clutch type?
> > How do i tell the difference and how do i tell
> what
> > ratio it is? What ratio would be ideal for a 1600?
> > nothing too crazy...
> >
> > lastly i need to move an sr20t. the guy has a box,
> > engine etc...not a half cut.
> > He doesn't have anywhere to support chains etc on
> his
> > roof. What is the best way to move it? ie trailer.
> And
> > how should i get it on and off?
> >
> > cheers all
> >
> > http://www.sold.com.au - SOLD.com.au
> > - Find yourself a bargain!
> >
> >
> 
>
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