No kids mate just a coupla mad staffies, but work takes up most of my
time, as does my favourite hobby - laziness.

2002 was going to be the year of the giant killer, but it ended up being
year of the new furniture, new brick BBQ and new outdoor setting to name
a few.

Luckily I have been advised 2003 is now going to be the year of the
giant killer, unless otherwise notified.  

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Richard
Clough
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2002 9:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: roll cage in 1600, mounting locations


My rally days extended till I had 2 kids in their early school years at
least. Now both kids are in their 20's.  I have just built a new 4 bay
shed for future car projects, but at present I seem to spend my spare
time fixing the kids cars so they keep going, or go faster/stop faster,
you probably know this story.

My son is already lining up 2 new project cars (1600's),  1 for historic
rallying and the other for an SR20 transplant, and asking me to help
with them.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Hallett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, 5 July 2002 23:03 PM
Subject: RE: roll cage in 1600, mounting locations


> Don't forget that will add a fair bit of weight, and I am not sure 
> whether the shearing strength will be as great as the floor plate 
> method.  It's worth testing out if anyone has a CAD system that will 
> calculate loadings.
>
> That cage I was talking about was very good, and took months of work, 
> but don't forget roll cages in rally cars save your life.  Especially 
> in the group G days when we were surrounded by fiberglass panels and 
> lexcen windows.  I would love to build another one out of chrome moly 
> some day. I was also single then and lived and breathed rally cars.  
> Every night I was in the shed doing something, now I consider it an 
> achievement to walk past the shed.
>
> I never skimp on safety items like roll cages or helmets, because 
> every day that I wake up is a good day.  I once saw a Stanza in a 
> fairly slow roll once where the front legs of the cage punched through

> the floor as the floor pan was rusty and the owner didn't bother 
> repairing it properly, just plated over it.  He is now in a wheelchair

> as a result. A proper job would have stopped him getting as much as a 
> headache.
>
> One thing we used to do with the sills, remove the outer skin, cut a 
> slot just below the floorpan, parallel with it at the jacking points, 
> and weld a plate to the floorpan at the jacking points with a section 
> of pipe protruding through the sill flush with the outside of the 
> sill, and another plate welded vertical against the inner of the sill 
> to support the pipe.  When the outer sill was replaced it appeared 
> like a hole at each jacking point through the actual sill.  We then 
> made up adjustable stands and when the car came in for service you 
> simply jacked up each end, set the stands in the hole at what height 
> we wanted, and we had safe and fast holding of the vehicle so we could

> crawl all over it, at whatever height we wanted.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Richard 
> Clough
> Sent: Friday, 5 July 2002 9:29 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: roll cage in 1600, mounting locations
>
>
> Brad
> That's the general idea. (That sounds like a hell of a safety cage)! 
> Instead of your bars running front to rear above the floor, my plan 
> was to go outward, to the inside the sill area, fit a full sill 
> length, vertically mounted strengthening plate, with welded nuts 
> fitted, and bolt the cabin hoops through to it.
>
> These days its almost mandatory to replace the outer sills, so I 
> thought that would provide an opportunity to fabricate roll bar 
> supports inside the sill, similar to the seat belt mounts located 
> there. I felt it was probably a good idea to make it a full length 
> vertical mount to get the body strengthening as well as the cage 
> mounting points.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brad Hallett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, 5 July 2002 21:00 PM
> Subject: RE: roll cage in 1600, mounting locations
>
>
> > I have built a spaceframe style roll cage years ago which consisted 
> > of
>
> > the front legs, main hoop and rear crucifix still welded to plates 
> > in the floor, but with horizontal tubing joing them all just above 
> > the floor the full legth of he car.  I also had cross bars sperating

> > the two sides, following the floor pan and bent over the 
> > transmission tunnel (also held seat mounts).  Front end had a 
> > spreader bar behind the dash and front legs linked to shock towers.

> > End result was a cage
>
> > that would hold together even if entire floor pan was ripped out. 
> > This allowed me to lighten the body dramatically (group G days) and 
> > the cage proved itself many times.
> >
> > Is this similar to what you want to do, only mounting it to the 
> > sills?
>
> > Don't forget that you need to tie all the suspension points together

> > for precision handling
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Richard 
> > Clough
> > Sent: Friday, 5 July 2002 8:34 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: roll cage in 1600, mounting locations
> >
> >
> > Can anyone think of a reason why  roll cage mounting brackets could 
> > not be installed vertically along the inside of the door sills 
> > rather than on the floor?
> >
> > My idea is to make a long mounting plate and weld it to the inside 
> > of the sill, or inside the sill cavity when the outer sills are 
> > replaced.
>
> > This would allow for the forward bars in the footwell and the centre

> > hoop to be mounted off the bottom of the wall rather than to the 
> > floor.
> >
> > My feeling is that these vertical roll cage mounts would have some 
> > advantages. They would be stronger than floor mounts in a roll over,

> > as the forces would be shear forces rather than flat fronted forces 
> > on
>
> > a thin metal floor pan. The full length side bars would stiffen the 
> > body. There are no bolts protruding under the floor getting damaged,

> > and no problems fitting carpets or concealing holes in the floor if 
> > the cage is removed .
> >
> > Comments on this idea?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "James Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, 5 July 2002 12:30 PM
> > Subject: Re: roll cage in 1600, pedal locations
> >
> >
> > > my mates 1600 rally car has a full cage and stock pedal and yeh 
> > > its pretty
> > damn close to the cage, could get annoying. You may wanna think 
> > about a bluebird (i think) pedal and cable accellator.
> > >
> > > James
> > >
> > > --- JUSTIN FRIEDRICHS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > >Guys,
> > > >Do you need to modify the position of the acc pedal
> > > >and brake pedal when a roll cage is fitted to a 1600. Cos I think

> > > >the cage legs need to be very close to the acc pedal.
> > > >
> > > >Cheers
> > > >Justin
> > > >
> > > >http://www.sold.com.au - SOLD.com.au
> > > >- Find yourself a bargain!
> > > >
> > >
> > > _____________________________________________________________
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