terry thanks heaps mate. Thats a big help !

James

--- "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>James,
>
>Most of the manuals are reasonably useful with changing a head gasket but
>what most of the manuals don't cover is a few preliminary steps to make
>changing a head gasket a lot easier to get everything back together right,
>especially the timings. I call it preparation and it's always a good idea
>IMHO.
>
>1. Remove the plugs and turn the engine over (by hand) until you are on TDC
>compression stroke on #1 i.e. (timing indicator on crank pulley indicates 0
>and both valves on #1 pointing upwards) and dismantle the engine in that
>position.
>
>2. Check that the dizzy rotor is pointing where it should be (L16/L18 is
>towards the radiator, I'm not sure on L20B) so you know if the drive shaft
>was put in right or 180 degrees out the last time someone had the engine
>apart. Failure to do this results in many a "help" post to this list when
>the engine spits out flames on start-up.
>
>3. Note which hole the cam dowel pin is located in the timing wheel, also
>where the "V" in the wheel is in relation to the indent on the thrust
>plate - refer to the manual on the method to do this. If the "V" is to the
>left of the indent (i.e. valve timing retarded), then you will re-fit the
>cam with more advance i.e. in a higher number until it's dead centre of the
>indent or slightly to the right. If it's in #3 already and it's still
>retarded then a new chain, guides and adjuster is required, as well as
>timing cover, oil pump to t/cover, and (optional) water pump to t/cover
>gaskets.
>
>4. if the timing cover isn't already off or not coming off the engine, make
>up the little chock (specs are in the manual) to keep the adjuster in place,
>otherwise you'll need the additional gaskets shown in point 3.
>
>Tools you'll need: (most of them anyway)
>
>10mm/12mm/14mm spanners (I use dwarf rings & sockets mainly, call me fussy
>but I hate burring bolts with open ended spanners with a passion)
>19mm socket or ring to remove cam timing wheel (I think that bolt is 19mm
>but it could be 22mm and you need a 22mm for the sump plug)
>oil filter remover
>3" & 6" extension bars and optional ratchet to suite
>plug spanner
>14mm/17mm open end spanners (mainly for adjusting rockers)
>feeler gauges
>10mm allen drive about 40mm long (used to undo head bolts)
>screw drivers (both blade & phillips)
>tension wrench
>
>
>Parts:
>VRS or Head set (I think a head set doesn't contain valve guide seals)
>Sealant (eg Blue RTV)
>Oil & filter (optional, you can change the oil after 200k's or so if it was
>good before you started i.e. no water in it)
>Coolant
>
>That's about all I could think off just now, prolly forgot something, I hope
>it isn't anything major.
>
>regards
>Terry
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Wrom: VWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHA
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison
>Sent: Saturday, 3 August 2002 4:06 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: head gasket change
>
>
>is there anywhere i can get a good detailed step by step walk thru of a
>gasket change for a datto?
>i have the manual, thats not bad but some extra would be good
>James
>
>--- "mark krawczuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>you will need a vrs set, and gasket goo.
>>if your game u can use a set square and feeler gauges.
>>
>> mark k
>>----- Original Message -----
>>Wrom: HJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYC
>>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 9:24 PM
>>Subject: head gasket change
>>
>>
>>>
>>> hey all, im changing my second head gasket, however this one is for
>>someone else and i want to do it 100% properly (not like mine, guess as you
>>go). i basically just need a list of all the stuff i'll need and a
>>good/cheap place in melbourne to get the head checked to see if it is
>>warped. its an L20 with 4-2-1 extractors, twin su's and some head work i
>>think.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> James
>>>
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>
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