cool, no doubt i'll be emailing th elist with some sorta emergency hehe nothig ever goes smoothly when it comes to me and cars :)
Thanks again James --- "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >No worries, pleasure. > >I just thought of something I left out that is tres important. > >After you get head back on, chain and optionally dizzy back in place, and >the valves clearances set, I always recommend that at this point in a >rebuild you turn the engine over through 720 degrees at the crank (which is >360 degrees on the cam) to make sure nothing hits. It's way too late when >you hit the starter and the cam timing is out to the point that there is >component contact. Then there are lots of tears and they ain't of joy. > >This process is also useful to double check that the cam timing is dialled >in where you wanted or thought you put it - at the end of the 720 degree >crank rotation carefully bring the crank back onto TDC #1 compression just >as you did before the teardown, and check the "V" against the indent on the >thrust plate again. This is a bit tricky if you've haven't got the timing >cover in place but you'll work out how to deal with that. > >regards >terry > >-----Original Message----- >Wrom: GDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQT >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison >Sent: Saturday, 3 August 2002 3:16 PM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: RE: head gasket change > > >terry thanks heaps mate. Thats a big help ! > >James > >--- "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>James, >> >>Most of the manuals are reasonably useful with changing a head gasket but >>what most of the manuals don't cover is a few preliminary steps to make >>changing a head gasket a lot easier to get everything back together right, >>especially the timings. I call it preparation and it's always a good idea >>IMHO. >> >>1. Remove the plugs and turn the engine over (by hand) until you are on TDC >>compression stroke on #1 i.e. (timing indicator on crank pulley indicates 0 >>and both valves on #1 pointing upwards) and dismantle the engine in that >>position. >> >>2. Check that the dizzy rotor is pointing where it should be (L16/L18 is >>towards the radiator, I'm not sure on L20B) so you know if the drive shaft >>was put in right or 180 degrees out the last time someone had the engine >>apart. Failure to do this results in many a "help" post to this list when >>the engine spits out flames on start-up. >> >>3. Note which hole the cam dowel pin is located in the timing wheel, also >>where the "V" in the wheel is in relation to the indent on the thrust >>plate - refer to the manual on the method to do this. If the "V" is to the >>left of the indent (i.e. valve timing retarded), then you will re-fit the >>cam with more advance i.e. in a higher number until it's dead centre of the >>indent or slightly to the right. If it's in #3 already and it's still >>retarded then a new chain, guides and adjuster is required, as well as >>timing cover, oil pump to t/cover, and (optional) water pump to t/cover >>gaskets. >> >>4. if the timing cover isn't already off or not coming off the engine, make >>up the little chock (specs are in the manual) to keep the adjuster in >place, >>otherwise you'll need the additional gaskets shown in point 3. >> >>Tools you'll need: (most of them anyway) >> >>10mm/12mm/14mm spanners (I use dwarf rings & sockets mainly, call me fussy >>but I hate burring bolts with open ended spanners with a passion) >>19mm socket or ring to remove cam timing wheel (I think that bolt is 19mm >>but it could be 22mm and you need a 22mm for the sump plug) >>oil filter remover >>3" & 6" extension bars and optional ratchet to suite >>plug spanner >>14mm/17mm open end spanners (mainly for adjusting rockers) >>feeler gauges >>10mm allen drive about 40mm long (used to undo head bolts) >>screw drivers (both blade & phillips) >>tension wrench >> >> >>Parts: >>VRS or Head set (I think a head set doesn't contain valve guide seals) >>Sealant (eg Blue RTV) >>Oil & filter (optional, you can change the oil after 200k's or so if it was >>good before you started i.e. no water in it) >>Coolant >> >>That's about all I could think off just now, prolly forgot something, I >hope >>it isn't anything major. >> >>regards >>Terry >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>Wrom: VWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHA >>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison >>Sent: Saturday, 3 August 2002 4:06 AM >>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>Subject: Re: head gasket change >> >> >>is there anywhere i can get a good detailed step by step walk thru of a >>gasket change for a datto? >>i have the manual, thats not bad but some extra would be good >>James >> >>--- "mark krawczuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>>you will need a vrs set, and gasket goo. >>>if your game u can use a set square and feeler gauges. >>> >>> mark k >>>----- Original Message ----- >>>Wrom: HJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYC >>>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>>Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 9:24 PM >>>Subject: head gasket change >>> >>> >>>> >>>> hey all, im changing my second head gasket, however this one is for >>>someone else and i want to do it 100% properly (not like mine, guess as >you >>>go). i basically just need a list of all the stuff i'll need and a >>>good/cheap place in melbourne to get the head checked to see if it is >>>warped. its an L20 with 4-2-1 extractors, twin su's and some head work i >>>think. >>>> >>>> Cheers >>>> James >>>> >>>> _____________________________________________________________ >>>> Get Your free Ozdat Email Account >>>> ---> http://www.ozdat.com >>>> >>>> _____________________________________________________________ >>>> Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with >>>[EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag >>>> >>> >> >>_____________________________________________________________ >>Get Your free Ozdat Email Account >>---> http://www.ozdat.com >> >>_____________________________________________________________ >>Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with >>[EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag >> >> > >_____________________________________________________________ >Get Your free Ozdat Email Account >---> http://www.ozdat.com > >_____________________________________________________________ >Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with >[EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag > > _____________________________________________________________ Get Your free Ozdat Email Account ---> http://www.ozdat.com _____________________________________________________________ Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with [EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
