speaking of emergency :) i snapped the water thingy on the back of the head the one that would normally goto the heater
i am not running a heater as the whole interior was stripped to be a rally/hill climb car... what should i do from here... idon't wanna remove the head as i just spent all yesterday putting it back on (after the annoying timing chain incident) any suggestions on where to go would be great ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 6:00 PM Subject: RE: head gasket change > cool, no doubt i'll be emailing th elist with some sorta emergency hehe nothig ever goes smoothly when it comes to me and cars :) > > Thanks again > James > > --- "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >No worries, pleasure. > > > >I just thought of something I left out that is tres important. > > > >After you get head back on, chain and optionally dizzy back in place, and > >the valves clearances set, I always recommend that at this point in a > >rebuild you turn the engine over through 720 degrees at the crank (which is > >360 degrees on the cam) to make sure nothing hits. It's way too late when > >you hit the starter and the cam timing is out to the point that there is > >component contact. Then there are lots of tears and they ain't of joy. > > > >This process is also useful to double check that the cam timing is dialled > >in where you wanted or thought you put it - at the end of the 720 degree > >crank rotation carefully bring the crank back onto TDC #1 compression just > >as you did before the teardown, and check the "V" against the indent on the > >thrust plate again. This is a bit tricky if you've haven't got the timing > >cover in place but you'll work out how to deal with that. > > > >regards > >terry > > > >-----Original Message----- > >Wrom: GDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQT > >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison > >Sent: Saturday, 3 August 2002 3:16 PM > >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Subject: RE: head gasket change > > > > > >terry thanks heaps mate. Thats a big help ! > > > >James > > > >--- "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >>James, > >> > >>Most of the manuals are reasonably useful with changing a head gasket but > >>what most of the manuals don't cover is a few preliminary steps to make > >>changing a head gasket a lot easier to get everything back together right, > >>especially the timings. I call it preparation and it's always a good idea > >>IMHO. > >> > >>1. Remove the plugs and turn the engine over (by hand) until you are on TDC > >>compression stroke on #1 i.e. (timing indicator on crank pulley indicates 0 > >>and both valves on #1 pointing upwards) and dismantle the engine in that > >>position. > >> > >>2. Check that the dizzy rotor is pointing where it should be (L16/L18 is > >>towards the radiator, I'm not sure on L20B) so you know if the drive shaft > >>was put in right or 180 degrees out the last time someone had the engine > >>apart. Failure to do this results in many a "help" post to this list when > >>the engine spits out flames on start-up. > >> > >>3. Note which hole the cam dowel pin is located in the timing wheel, also > >>where the "V" in the wheel is in relation to the indent on the thrust > >>plate - refer to the manual on the method to do this. If the "V" is to the > >>left of the indent (i.e. valve timing retarded), then you will re-fit the > >>cam with more advance i.e. in a higher number until it's dead centre of the > >>indent or slightly to the right. If it's in #3 already and it's still > >>retarded then a new chain, guides and adjuster is required, as well as > >>timing cover, oil pump to t/cover, and (optional) water pump to t/cover > >>gaskets. > >> > >>4. if the timing cover isn't already off or not coming off the engine, make > >>up the little chock (specs are in the manual) to keep the adjuster in > >place, > >>otherwise you'll need the additional gaskets shown in point 3. > >> > >>Tools you'll need: (most of them anyway) > >> > >>10mm/12mm/14mm spanners (I use dwarf rings & sockets mainly, call me fussy > >>but I hate burring bolts with open ended spanners with a passion) > >>19mm socket or ring to remove cam timing wheel (I think that bolt is 19mm > >>but it could be 22mm and you need a 22mm for the sump plug) > >>oil filter remover > >>3" & 6" extension bars and optional ratchet to suite > >>plug spanner > >>14mm/17mm open end spanners (mainly for adjusting rockers) > >>feeler gauges > >>10mm allen drive about 40mm long (used to undo head bolts) > >>screw drivers (both blade & phillips) > >>tension wrench > >> > >> > >>Parts: > >>VRS or Head set (I think a head set doesn't contain valve guide seals) > >>Sealant (eg Blue RTV) > >>Oil & filter (optional, you can change the oil after 200k's or so if it was > >>good before you started i.e. no water in it) > >>Coolant > >> > >>That's about all I could think off just now, prolly forgot something, I > >hope > >>it isn't anything major. > >> > >>regards > >>Terry > >> > >> > >>-----Original Message----- > >>Wrom: VWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHA > >>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of James Morrison > >>Sent: Saturday, 3 August 2002 4:06 AM > >>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>Subject: Re: head gasket change > >> > >> > >>is there anywhere i can get a good detailed step by step walk thru of a > >>gasket change for a datto? > >>i have the manual, thats not bad but some extra would be good > >>James > >> > >>--- "mark krawczuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >>>you will need a vrs set, and gasket goo. > >>>if your game u can use a set square and feeler gauges. > >>> > >>> mark k > >>>----- Original Message ----- > >>>Wrom: HJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYC > >>>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>>Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 9:24 PM > >>>Subject: head gasket change > >>> > >>> > >>>> > >>>> hey all, im changing my second head gasket, however this one is for > >>>someone else and i want to do it 100% properly (not like mine, guess as > >you > >>>go). i basically just need a list of all the stuff i'll need and a > >>>good/cheap place in melbourne to get the head checked to see if it is > >>>warped. its an L20 with 4-2-1 extractors, twin su's and some head work i > >>>think. > >>>> > >>>> Cheers > >>>> James > >>>> > >>>> _____________________________________________________________ > >>>> Get Your free Ozdat Email Account > >>>> ---> http://www.ozdat.com > >>>> > >>>> _____________________________________________________________ > >>>> Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with > >>>[EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag > >>>> > >>> > >> > >>_____________________________________________________________ > >>Get Your free Ozdat Email Account > >>---> http://www.ozdat.com > >> > >>_____________________________________________________________ > >>Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with > >>[EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag > >> > >> > > > >_____________________________________________________________ > >Get Your free Ozdat Email Account > >---> http://www.ozdat.com > > > >_____________________________________________________________ > >Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag > > > > > > _____________________________________________________________ > Get Your free Ozdat Email Account > ---> http://www.ozdat.com > > _____________________________________________________________ > Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with [EMAIL PROTECTED] by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
