Bob, The 260Z uses the same lower ball joint as the late model 1600 (Pedders PN is PBJ85) but I haven't a clue about Zed tie rod ends - I think I'm pretty safe to say it definitely wont be the same a 1600 as the Zed has R&P steering.
regards Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Wednesday, 2 October 2002 10:10 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Rego Repairs Fantastic, thanks everyone. What shoudl I expect to pay for the parts? Auto places always draw a blank when asked for parts for a 260z, so are they interchangable with other models? Wednesday, October 02, 2002, 9:52:57 PM, you wrote: RC> Bob RC> You can do the jobs yourself. RC> 12 and 14mm ring spanners and sockets, plus a 17mm C spanner to break the RC> lock nut on the tie rod and a 17mm socket to remove the steering arm from RC> the strut to get access to the ball joint nut. RC> To extract tapered ball joint pins from their components, loosen the nut RC> until you cant see any thread on the outer side. Then you need to strike RC> the side of the steering arm beside the pin with a hammer, while holding a RC> heavy hammer or other metal object against the other side to absorb the RC> shock. If you dont have a second hammer, strike it on the end so the shock RC> is transmitted into the strut. This momentarily deforms the steering arm RC> around the tapered pin, and should loosen the tapered pin, allowing it to RC> fall to the where the nut is holding. Repeat if it doesnt. Take off the RC> nut and the pin will drop out. RC> Same technique for the lower ball joint to the steering arm, but you will RC> need a second shock absorbing hammer or similar. RC> You can buy a couple of different ball joint removing tools. The better RC> design pushes down on the taper pin using leverage from a bolt under RC> compression on the tool. You still have to "shock" the outer housing to get RC> the pin to loosen. RC> You should have the front end realigned after replacing a tie rod. You can RC> do a rough alignment yourself by measuring across the wheel base front and RC> rear of the front wheels, then resetting to the same measures after RC> replacing the tie rod end. If steering changes or tyres start to wear RC> unevenly, get it realigned on an aligning jig. RC> ----- Original Message ----- RC> From: "Bob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> RC> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> RC> Sent: Wednesday, 2 October 2002 19:57 PM RC> Subject: Rego Repairs >> Hello membersozdat, >> >> I have been knocked back for rego because of a tie rod end and a >> ball joint on the front left. Ive never really done much mechanical >> work on suspension/steering before, but it doesnt look too hard - do >> you need any special tools etc to replace them besides spanners, >> ratchets etc? Is it an easy enough job to do? Also, I will need a >> wheel alignment after the tie rod end is replaced right? >> >> -- >> Best regards, >> Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> -- Best regards, Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
