well im NO EXPERT as i am just learning but here are a few things, I am going to buys a cams manual soon as I think it will become a must
must keep the following 4 speed box drum brakes on rear (but i think can upgrade to later model z car ones ?) back seat & most of interior (means roll cage fixed to wheel arches & not floor) carpet can & should be removed heater box (but not the element) the following items are "free" which means anything you want exhaust is free (but must be below 95db so have to have a muffler, i have motivator extractors into 2 & 1/2 inch main pipe with 3" tail pipe & lukey muffler) carbies are free (i currently have twin su's but am going to buy 45mm webbers) diff ratio's (i need to upgrade mine to be higher) race suspension - stiff n low (i think you can even go to coil overs if you want, but not sure) strutt braces are allowed tyres are a control tyre (havent checked which yet, sorry) fuel must be commercially available with no additives except for lead replacer roll cage CANNOTT pass through fire wall to front strutts like in many rally cars you can put in a race seat & harness to one or both front seats car must have a fire extinguisher I believe (but not had it confirmed yet) that you can completely build a race engine as long as you dont exceed 1600 plus 30 thou. in engine capacity. I am currently running my car in improved production but will log book it next year when i save up & buy the correct tyres. I am doing super sprints & hill climbs as they are $60-$80 entry fee as opposed to racing which is more like $200.00 nomination fee. a cams level 2s licence is only about $80.00 a year, but a c3 historic is about $450.00 plus a medical examination so as you can see the cost jumps up heaps for proper circuit racing & at the moment I am better spending the money on the car to get the development right as it This is the order that i am approaching things safety first - safety fast :-) race seats harnesses roll cage then handling as you save more time in corners than on the straights suspension tyres brakes then work on the engine sorry its so long, but i probably just touched on it really. & yes it is unfortunately going to be expensive to go beyond what i am doing now. cheers Jeff Jeff Tell us what legally must remain in a Group N Historic and what can be "improved". (As one who is mildly intersted in doing a similar build up) Or should I buy a CAMS manual? Rick Clough Ph: 03 5172 2670 email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ********************************************************************** Any personal or sensitive information contained in this email and attachments must be handled in accordance with the Victorian Information Privacy Act 2000, the Health Records Act 2001 or the Privacy Act 1988 (Commonwealth), as applicable. This email, including all attachments, is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose, distribute, copy or use the information contained in this email or attachments. Any confidentiality or privilege is not waived or lost because this email has been sent to you in error. If you have received it in error, please let us know by reply email, delete it from your system and destroy any copies. ********************************************************************** --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
