Replace the head bolts -- they very rarely stay short enough the
second time, and the result will be what I had -- a leaking head
gasket. If any are definitely too long, condemn the whole set.
They aren't anywhere near as expensive as doing the job again in a
couple years.
Peter
On Mar 7, 2009, at 11:26 AM, dave walton wrote:
Use Hylomar on the replacement head gasket. Be careful when you turn
the engine by hand, the spring on the vacuum pump causes it to lurch
forward. Remove the pump if it's a problem.
You can do the head/head-gasket with the car in the engine. You'd have
to pull it to replace the connecting rods. It comes out with the
transmission - you can't get to all the bolts connecting the two with
it in the car.
It might be possible to disassemble the front suspension enough to get
the oil pan off to get at the crankshaft. Probably be more work than
pulling the engine.
Rods were $190 apiece when I did mine.
No reason to replace the head bolts if their length is within
tolerance. They stretch when they go bad. I had to replace 3 of them
as I recall.
You need to be prudent with what you replace, otherwise you will spend
thousands to replace good parts "just in case".
-Dave Walton
On Fri, Mar 6, 2009 at 9:39 PM, Rich Thomas
<richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
So is that gasket pretty straightforward to replace? Is getting
the head
off fairly easy? Then replacing gasket and putting head back on?
I guess
you would need to remove the chain and intake/exhaust then some
other stuff,
get the bolts off, then redo? Probably check the round on the
cylinders
while the head is off to see if it is starting to go bad? While
head is
off, replace rods?
--R
Peter Frederick wrote:
Overheating will kill any OM603 head. More likely a dead head
gasket --
they only last about 200,000 miles,
Peter
On Mar 6, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
He says the 115 was running fine but the blower resistor
overheated and
caught fire, burned under the dash or something,
The blower resistor pack is inside the air intake plenum, under
the grille. The connector on the firewall goes to it. Nothing
there to catch fire except the resistor pack itself, which is
metal, and its plastic connector. And the cable over to the
blower motor, of course!
Unless, of course, that it was something else and _was_ under
the dash. That could be a mess.
thinking that for $800 (if I beat on the guy a bit) or $1000
and some
parts and a bit of time, a very nice car could be running.
That could be OK. It's all about price and effort. But that
kind of territory, if the car is otherwise nice and you
realistically
could put it right enough to drive (you should see my to-be-done
pile!)
then you can have a pretty nice ride for not so much that way.
I thought the cracking head problem had been dealt with by
the rodbender era, so the chances of a cracked head are down
to 'normal'. Unless it got overheated at all.
-- Jim
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