Thx for the instructions! Yes, I'd like the full content. What do you use
to wash things off with as you work? Kero / Diesel?
Thanks -
LarryT
91 300D 602-962
OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net
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From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 8:20 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel delivery valve job
Doing one at a time is excess work. I have done 4 OM603s with good
results by following the instructions. As with all injector work,
cleanliness is the primary concern. After the deck is cleaned, and you
start to remove the DVs, I back them out until the oring starts to show,
then wash the DV and deck again. When the oring is leaking, it is
crumbling. Lots of little black stuff is released and needs to be washed
off. As you back out the DV, keep washing and blowing off the DV and
deck.
I take off and replace one DV at a time, up to the final torque. After the
last DV is done, then replace the lines, bleed the air and tighten down
the line at the injector. I also replace the DV springs while I am in
there. It is just a precaution, and quite inexpensive.
Don't replace only the leaking orings. You will be right back doing the
job again. Taking off the intake manifold does make the job easier, but
is not necessary. If I ever have need to remove the intake manifold, I
change the orings, unless I know the orings are under 2 years old.
I also order 8 orings, 8 copper seals and 6 springs to do the job.
Sometimes it is necessary to pull one back out, and that usually results
in a cut oring, and the copper seal should also be replaced. Having spares
cuts a week off the duration of the job. (Waiting for more orings to be
delivered)
IF you don't have it, I will email the instructions I have accumulated
from this list over time. You need to be clean and be careful, but it is
not that hard of a job, and I think the dangers are overstated, unless you
try to use air tools to install the delivery valves.
Max wrote <<Maybe you should only do the leaking DV's in order to reduce
the
possibility of a problem?>>
That's a good idea. I'll have to clean things really good to determine
which is the primary culprit/s. Usually the engine is pretty clean but
it's been so cold that I haven't been able to rinse it off. At the moment
there's a thin film of diesel around all 5 DV hold down clamps.
BTW, what kind of noise should I be listening for? I wonder how the
factory/dealer does them to make sure they "do it right the first time"
(also know as DIRTFT) ? I'm sure the factory uses a special tool to screw
all 5 or 6 in at once, but if I'm very careful with my torque wrench I
should be able to duplicate the torque on each DV pretty precisely, I
think.
I suspect the 3 stage procedure for torqueing is to insure accuracy so
there must have been problems in the past. Is the metal on the IP where
the DV's are installed perhaps soft which could lead to inaccurate
settings? Just curious ---
Thx for the suggestion - -
LarryT
91 300D
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