It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two
subframe bolts on that side. You may as well change the subframe
mounts while you are there. And, the LCA should be done at the same
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the
bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for
that.
FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square
bolts is a set of vice grips.
Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the
ground.
Dieselvolk,
Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one
side; about six hours invested so far. Special tools definitely
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod "thrust piece"
tool 201 589 13 33 00. Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm;
fortunately I had that size.
I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in
the next few days. 201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit
proper torque application for inner bolts.
Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil,
started removing bolts. I left the shock in place which held the
spring link and spring - saving those for later work. I also left
the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner
ends quite tight. Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts
will be phase 3.
The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod strut was rusted in place.
I was able to break off the nut end using the breaker bar, but no
amount of pounding would drive out the remainder of the bolt. I
suspect the rubber bushing absorbed the impact force. Finally I
broke out my poor man's sawz-all; reciprocating saw with metal
cutting blade, and after about 20 minutes it too yielded and the
last strut was out.
Bone-headed mistake so far: Forgot to mark the position of the
cam-bolt on inside of the tie-rod strut. I haven't tried to align
it by eye yet, it is obviously pointed in at front of the wheel. I
may play around with a laser level in the future, but I will take
the car in for an alignment when I get all the rubber in the rear
done. I may also replace some steering components so only one trip
to the alignment shop is required.
Two of four struts can not be properly torqued without either
dropping the subframe or using some special MB tool; camber strut
and torque strut are not possible with my tool selection. Another
curiosity, the old nuts were all 19mm, new are all 18mm.
-Max
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_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
