You certainly make the spring removal sound easy; I'm almost looking
forward to the LCA bushings. In addition to removing the outer
bolt, I think the bottom bolt for the shock and also the bolt for
the torsion spring need to be removed. Is there much tension on the
torsion spring?
You are right, the shock and torsion link need to be removed. That
will be obvious when you tackle the LCA. There is really nothing
special about removing the LCA, jus support the car at the rear jack
points, then put the jack under the LCA, pull the bolt, then loser
the LCA until the spring is loose.
I'm NOT looking forward to the subframe mounts. I have a feeling
that I'll spend an entire day working on those. I did find a very
nice write-up, which includes pictures and procedures for making
wooden approximations of the special tools.
It is not that bad. much easier than 123/126.
In the meanwhile, I probably will do the LCA bushings next month,
then some steering components, and then get an alignment. Subframe
mounts may very well end up as a winter project.
As far as special tools, I have one box for them, and so anytime I
need one I generally have to dig through all of them, which keeps me
from forgetting what's in the box.
-Max
________________________________
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 2:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2
NO! The spring is between the rear subframe and the LCA The
spring is easy. put the rear on jackstands under the jack points.
Put the jack under the LCA and remove the outer bolt. Lower the jack
and catch the spring as it falls out. Note which pad is top and wich
is bottom.
after this step is done, then put the jack under the diff, remove the
subframe mount bolts. Lower the jack.
then remove the wheel carrier and a good alignment shop can change
the bushing for a few bucks, and you don't need the special tool.
I am cleaning the garage, and finding tools I forgot i owned. The
problem with "special tools" is that unless you are uber organized,
and spend the time to keep everything that way, you can't find the
"special tool" when you need it.
I am off to HF now to buy my third sawzall type saw, because I
apparently left both mine at Daughter's house.... and to buy my
third circular saw, because on in at the north of the US and one is
at the south US... and none here....
Yes, I can see that dropping a side would help mucho, but doesn't
that also mean dealing with the suspension spring? I'm trying to
avoid taking too much apart now. Subframe mounts are planned for
phase 3, along with the spring link (aka lower control arm)
bushings. Funny - I thought from the EPC pictures that the outer
bushing for the spring link was in the link, not in the wheel
carrier, guess I should have looked at the car first. Oh well, all
new parts much easier to get to and take apart now.
Yes, I did remember to raise the axle to level before tightening.
I'm sure I could use a vice grips for most of the fasteners in the
car, but then I wouldn't have an excuse to buy more tools! What a
boring tool box: hammer, vice grips, screw driver, duct tape...
OK, I've got a few house-keeping jobs and then I'm going to tackle
the other side. It would be really nice if that special 'ring
wrench' would be delivered by FedEx today.
-Max
________________________________
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 9:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2
It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two
subframe bolts on that side. You may as well change the subframe
mounts while you are there. And, the LCA should be done at the same
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the
>bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for
that.
FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square
bolts is a set of vice grips.
Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the
ground.
Dieselvolk,
Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one
side; about six hours invested so far. Special tools definitely
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod "thrust piece"
tool 201 589 13 33 00. Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm;
fortunately I had that size.
I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in
the next few days. 201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit
proper torque application for inner bolts.
Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil,
started removing bolts. I left the shock in place which held the
spring link and spring - saving those for later work. I also left
the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner
ends quite tight. Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts
will be phase 3.
The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod strut was rusted in place.
>I was able to break off the nut end using the breaker bar, but no
amount of pounding would drive out the remainder of the bolt. I
suspect the rubber bushing absorbed the impact force. Finally I
broke out my poor man's sawz-all; reciprocating saw with metal
cutting blade, and after about 20 minutes it too yielded and the
last strut was out.
Bone-headed mistake so far: Forgot to mark the position of the
cam-bolt on inside of the tie-rod strut. I haven't tried to align
it by eye yet, it is obviously pointed in at front of the wheel. I
may play around with a laser level in the future, but I will take
the car in for an alignment when I get all the rubber in the rear
done. I may also replace some steering components so only one trip
to the alignment shop is required.
Two of four struts can not be properly torqued without either
dropping the subframe or using some special MB tool; camber strut
and torque strut are not possible with my tool selection. Another
curiosity, the old nuts were all 19mm, new are all 18mm.
-Max
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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_______________________________________
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To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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