Practice makes perfect; second side completed in about 3 hours. Of course, I had all the tools out which saved some time, and also didn't have to use my poor man's sawz-all. I also remembered to mark the tie rod cam bolt. Once I had both sides done, I used some string and tape to try to point the rear tires toward the front. Second side, where I'd marked the cam bolt, was pointed directly at the front tire. First side I had to make some adjustment to dial it in; a set of ramps would have been very helpful. Time to eat lunch, then go for a test drive! -Max
________________________________ From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310 Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 10:31 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2 Yes, I can see that dropping a side would help mucho, but doesn't that also mean dealing with the suspension spring? I'm trying to avoid taking too much apart now. Subframe mounts are planned for phase 3, along with the spring link (aka lower control arm) bushings. Funny - I thought from the EPC pictures that the outer bushing for the spring link was in the link, not in the wheel carrier, guess I should have looked at the car first. Oh well, all new parts much easier to get to and take apart now. Yes, I did remember to raise the axle to level before tightening. I'm sure I could use a vice grips for most of the fasteners in the car, but then I wouldn't have an excuse to buy more tools! What a boring tool box: hammer, vice grips, screw driver, duct tape... OK, I've got a few house-keeping jobs and then I'm going to tackle the other side. It would be really nice if that special 'ring wrench' would be delivered by FedEx today. -Max ________________________________ From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 9:30 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2 It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two subframe bolts on that side. You may as well change the subframe mounts while you are there. And, the LCA should be done at the same time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for that. FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square bolts is a set of vice grips. Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the ground. >Dieselvolk, > >Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one >side; about six hours invested so far. Special tools definitely >help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only >have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2 >inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a >source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod "thrust piece" >tool 201 589 13 33 00. Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside >end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm; >fortunately I had that size. > >I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in >the next few days. 201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit >proper torque application for inner bolts. > >Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil, >started removing bolts. I left the shock in place which held the >spring link and spring - saving those for later work. I also left >the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner >ends quite tight. Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts >will be phase 3. > >The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod strut was rusted in place. >I was able to break off the nut end using the breaker bar, but no >amount of pounding would drive out the remainder of the bolt. I >suspect the rubber bushing absorbed the impact force. Finally I >broke out my poor man's sawz-all; reciprocating saw with metal >cutting blade, and after about 20 minutes it too yielded and the >last strut was out. > >Bone-headed mistake so far: Forgot to mark the position of the >cam-bolt on inside of the tie-rod strut. I haven't tried to align >it by eye yet, it is obviously pointed in at front of the wheel. I >may play around with a laser level in the future, but I will take >the car in for an alignment when I get all the rubber in the rear >done. I may also replace some steering components so only one trip >to the alignment shop is required. > >Two of four struts can not be properly torqued without either >dropping the subframe or using some special MB tool; camber strut >and torque strut are not possible with my tool selection. Another >curiosity, the old nuts were all 19mm, new are all 18mm. > >-Max > >_______________________________________ >http://www.okiebenz.com <http://www.okiebenz.com/> <http://www.okiebenz.com/> >For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com <http://www.okiebenz.com/> <http://www.okiebenz.com/> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com <http://www.okiebenz.com/> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
