I never found a shop that had a test stand for a distributor, much less knew how to work on one. If the dist was suspect, the drill was to get a dist out of the junkyard, install new points and cond. and set the gap or dwell. The theory involves dwell, but in practice, if you set the gap right, you never need a dwell meter. I always checked the gap on several different lobes of the cam to be sure it was right. I also found that when you install a dist, if you turn the dist to the point where the gap just opens to the spec with the crank set to the timing mark, the timing is right on. you can check it with a light, but if you do this carefully, you never need a timing light or dwell meter. I invented that trick the first time I ever messed with timing, on a 69 BMW R50/2 magneto. Lots of old mechanics knew it. It saved my bacon more than once.

On 9/24/2010 9:53 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

The book method is to have a remote starter button, but I'd use it so seldom that I never thought it was worth it. Kinda like a dwell meter. I always set the points by gap. When I finally got up enough jingees to afford a dwell meter, I found my gap was more accurate than the meter.
<<SNIP>>

Assbackwards thinking here. The performance requirement on the old systems was the degrees of dwell to saturate the coil. *The point gap was given as a reference figure* to the backyard mechanic who didn't have access to proper timing & setting equipment. "Back in the day', a good shop would put the distributor on a bench machine and set the dwell and timing advance. They than set the initial timing when installing the distributor.


Problem, due to all the mechanics involved, the optimun settings were very short lived and you need consistent high quality fuel.

My gas burners usually go 100Kmi with no ignition related maintainance.


--
Pete Arnold

"You win some, You loose some and You wreck some!

-Dale Earnhardt-
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