THanks for the info. It is not the parts for the job, that require
the second wait. It is stuff that is not in the kit or things that
you find when you are "in there" that cause the second order.
You should not need to order parts more than once. It is a relatively
straightforward job, but it does take some time. The exhaust parts tend to
come loose without too much trouble. You will need (or find it easier) to
get under the car to disconnect the exhaust downpipe. It may also help to
remove the exhaust support near the transmission to give you more room to
work with.
On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
The turbo flunked the test with the breather (egr) disconnected and the
oil filler cap loose. [the cam throws quite a bit of oil with the cap off
at idle. a whole lot at higher rpm.] Still roughly the same amount of oil
coming up the throat of the turbo and being blown out in wisps
I decided that $300 for a cartridge, and still having to fiddle with
wastegate adjustment, and possibly running out of time vs buying a complete
rebuilt from Q and not having to check or adjust anything is worth the
price differential in this case. Plus the turbo from Q has a 2 yr
warranty. He says he has never had one come back. that is good too. Had
I found the elusive $79 cartridge (gotta be chinee) I might have tried one.
but at $300, a known with time savings is good in this case.
Once again, Mr. Q saves an agent of Herr Daimler's secret service group.
Parts should be in thurs pm. I have Thursday night and fri am to git er
done.
87 300SDL
Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly. You will probably need
to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and
possibly the fitting on the block as well. Not a big deal.
The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with strap
clamps, easy to manage.
I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.
Peter
On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the turbo
off? My guess is not. I can't imagine the drain getting plugged when M1
is in the engine.
I am inclined to order a turbo cartridge and just change it. If the
drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on a
shelf.
Where does the oil feed line come in?
What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the
turbo?
Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?
The ********* forum had a post where someone said taking off the
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped oil
leaking into the turbo. Sounds fishy to me on a 603.
Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I have
all parts in hand. If I tear into it, it might be weeks or
months until it
gets finished because of the distance involved.
Parts needed:
2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit. (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? hose?
new steel line?)
Turbo cartridge kit. (should include necessary parts to change)
It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently. I need to
either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another trip.
No trip is on the horizon until November.
1987 300SDL is the subject.
Dieselhead wrote:
From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
that right?
Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
seal failure?
...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under
>>>> pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.
I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the
bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth "seals" would get
chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.
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