Peter & Others, Thank you all for the information and ideas. I changed out the injectors last night and it made no difference at all. I did adjust the alda all the way closed and the car would not idle or achieve and rpm 2500 and was not drivable. When I moved it back out (ccw) it would run and it returned to the normal terrible running status we have been battling since the new used injection pump was in installed. I was then called to dinner. I plan on changing out the alda with one that is unmolested (thanks Mitch) on Sunday. Is there a good write up on how to check to see where I stand on this issue. I have never adjusted the timing and do not intend to try to change it. I plan on taking it back into the mechanic on Monday and trying a few adjustments.
Thanks Mike p.s. I fried the alternator in my 78 MGB yesterday when I jumped it after leaving the lights on. I inadvertently hooked up cables up backwards and shorted it out. (Yes, I know better) I am not having much luck with my cars lately. On Jun 28, 2013, at 6:13 PM, Peter Frederick wrote: > This was discussed recently. > > There are some injection pumps out there that are marked for timing > INCORRECTLY with the result that if you use the normal procedure, the pump > will be 180 degrees out of time, firing the injectors on the top of the > exhaust stroke instead of the injection stroke. The engine will not start at > low temps, will run rough, and smoke like hell with low power. > > You must use the drip tube method to check this, and be very careful to have > the injection occur on the compression, not exhaust stroke. > > If the pump timing is indeed correct by the drip tube method (which detects > the point at which the pump plunger covers the fill slot in the sleeve, start > of delivery), you should check the CAMSHAFT timing to make sure it's not a > tooth (or two) late. > > You should also verify that you have proper valve clearance, as tight valves > will give you low compression and hence huge smoke and no power. > > If the car has EGR. disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve and make sure > it closes. A stuck EGR will give terrible smoke (as in you cannot see the > car behind you on acceleration), very low power, and funny muffled knocking, > but no other effects. Typically once you have some speed on the engine power > will come back up under light load. > > On a newly installed IP, my guess would be something wrong with the timing > unless the car was also running poorly before you replaced the IP. > > If it's been run any significant time on pure veggie oil, you need to check > the compression and the condition of the pre-chambers too -- veg oil is > notorious for coking up the entire fuel system along with very serious > varnish formation in the IP. Plugged prechambers will prevent normal > operation. That coke may burn out if you get it to run decently on diesel > fuel, but likely if present will require removal and cleaning of the > pre-chambers. > > Peter > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
