Broken wire in one of the door accordion covers?  I'm talking about the
door hinge area, where the wires exit the body and enter the door.  All the
flexing that occurs there will eventually break wires.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
 On Jul 12, 2014 6:18 AM, "Ralph Robertson" <rare...@gmail.com> wrote:

> My problem seems to be much more of an electrical issue than just the
> locking vacuum pump.  I replaced the pump with a used one but the fuse blew
> again. Then disconnected the electrical antennae, but it blew again. Then I
> did the same with the trunk light, and the front overhead lights, but in
> time the fuse kept blowing.  It is strange in that I seem to be able to
> replace the fuse, everything works fine for quite a while, then it just
> pops again.  Occasionally it blows when I replace it like in a direct short
> situation; if I leave it alone for a while, then replace the fuse, it will
> work again for several weeks at a time, before it will blow again for no
> "apparent" reason.  It is like there is a direct short somewhere and it
> only blows when the timing is right, like a bare wire touching
> occasionally.
> When the fuse does pop, I can tell, as the red lights over the rear view
> mirror for the seat belts will continually blink on and off when I am
> driving.  And of course the ant. won't go up or down and the central
> locking system won't work.
> I'm at a loss with this one.
> Ralph '87 300SDL
>           '84  300CD
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 10:10 AM, Ralph Robertson <rare...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > My central locking system blew a fuse and I have to manually open a door,
> > with the key, and pull up the lock buttons to open them, and reverse, to
> > lock the car.  When I try to replace the fuse, the alarm sounds until I
> > remove the fuse again.  How can I replace the fuse without driving
> > everybody nuts with the horn blowing?  I tried even removing the actual
> > horn fuse, but the alarm went off anyway.
> > Ralph '87 300SDL
> >
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