Time for all new rubber in the air part of the fuel injection -- new
idle control valve hoses, new boot for the fuel distributor, and new
seals between manifold halves. Normal maintenace, alas.
Also check to make sure the air flow metering flap is moving normally,
the electrohydraulic control valve on the fuel distributor is not
leaking, and that the ignition wires are not leaking huge amounts of
current.
Look for spiderweb burn marks were the coil wire and plug wires are
close to metal, this means they are shot. Might need a new
distributor cap as well, and getting leaks fixed if it has carbon
tracks in it.
Most likely a bad idle control valve hose or sticking idle control
valve it if dies on deceleration -- the valve closes as it should but
does not open fast enough to keep the idle from dropping to zero as
the car slows down.
And don't forget to check the fuel pumps -- there are two, and if
either is going out, it will do everything you mention. Bad fuel pump
relay can do the same thing, but usually as a result of a bad fuel
pump drawing too much current. You can check the relay by jumpering
around it temporarily -- if the car runs fine with a jumper instead
of the relay, replace the relay and check the current draw on BOTH
pumps.
Peter
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