+1 they "mechaniced" your car (almost) to death. Had no clue what
they were doing.
See below. You won't have as many lines,, but the procedure is the
same. part numbers etc below. For the first time, I'd get at least 2
extra orings. you will end up taking at least one out again the first
time you do this. If you are lucky, they only mis torqued the pump. If
they screwed up the calibtation, it is a calibration/bench test by
authorized Bosch injection shop. IF they have the specs. MB is
notorious for withholding specs. In that case, you will have to send it
to one of the shops that advertise in the Star.
Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 21, 2017 at 9:34 AM
They did not get the delivery valves back together. In fact they may
have disturbed the orientation of the valves which is causing that
hole not to fire.
Sent from my iPhone
Applies to OM606W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves.Most should apply to
OM603
A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it
wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!)
It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running out
to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous,
certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know.
Parts:
7x603 078 01 41Clip, fuel (Gray plastic 2 injection line clip)
7x601 078 04 86Shim, fuel (black rubber pad for under the gray 2 line clips)
2x601 078 26 41 Clip, fuel (white plastic wraparound 3 inj line clip
?x601 078 20 41 Clip, fuel (Gray plastic 3 inj line clip)
6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares)
6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer)
6x 001 074 34 93 Delivery valve spring.
(These same parts are used on later 616 and 607 engines and all 601,
602 or 603 engine.)
Optional:
000 545 03 3480 amp strip fuse glow plug
000 545 02 3430 amp strip fuse, heater blower, 126
606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket OM 606 only, your gasket may vary)
Consider replacing all glow plugs if you have the manifold off, and the
glow plugs are easy to get to
Tools:
Magnetic parts dish to hold springs and unions, tools
Telescoping magnet to catch springs
Compressed air with blowgun
-8mm socket or nutrunner
-10mm socket
-6mm hex bit socket(I like the 6" long one)
-T-30 socket
-T-40 socket
-13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00(I just use a regular 13mm
combination wrench. DH)
-32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00
-a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers
-some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics
cleaner)
-Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm -> 35Nm
-A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, "Scott" Brand)
misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4
reducer)
-a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel fuel
Instructions:
-Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc).
-Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, how
the various clips attach to them.
-Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will
likely break.
-Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The
special crowsfoot (14mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine
side.
-Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings to
the injection pump. Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the
pump.
-Remove all of the lock rings.
-Clean the top of the IP again--pay special attention to around the
delivery valves.
***
-Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery
valve (DV) union. Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the DV union, being
careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from
inside the pump.
-Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the
delivery valve assembly that was under the valve holder.
-Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the DV assembly. Try to
keep the
ring and DV assembly more or less centered within the bore
-Remove the O-ring from the outside of the DV union. Use carb cleaner
or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body (don't flush
it inside!)
-Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve union. Put a few drops of oil on
the threads of the union and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring that the
ring is well-oiled.
-Thread the delivery valve union into the IP by hand, being cautious of the
DV assembly and the spring. (The spring should seat on top of the
DV assembly in the pump), and the O-ring should not be pinched.
-Using a torque wrench and the spline socket, torque the delivery valve
union to 30Nm (22 ft-lb).
-Loosen the DV union maybe 1/8 turn (just enough to remove the
torque/pressure) and re-torque to 30Nm/22ft-lbs.
-Repeat the above step (This makes 3x torquing to 30Nm/22ft-lbs)
-Torque an additional 5Nm/4ft-lbs (This makes 35Nm/26ft-lbs in 2 stages)
-Repeat the above ten steps (from the *** mark) for the remaining delivery
valve unions. If any don't look right or feel right, or you just aren't
sure if
it's right, remove it, inspect the O-ring for pinches/tears and do it
over. It's easy to do right now.
-After finishing all the valves, replace the lock rings, I think a decent
order to place the on is: 1-3-2-5-4-6, making sure that the holes all line
up for the retaining screws.
-Reinstall the retaining screws (T-30), making sure to "pre-load" the lock
rings to prevent loosening of the valve holders). Torque to
10Nm/7ft-lbs.
-Replace the injection lines. Where the pipes run together in pairs, the
odd number cylinder one should lay on top. Do not tighten the nuts yet.
-Install all of the new clips (easier said than done, but a straight
screwdriver and a rubber mallet make it a little easier the install them).
-Torque all of the injection line nuts to 23Nm/17ft-lbs.
-To bleed the injection lines, depress the accelerator to the floor while
holding the key in the start position. After 40 seconds, stop, and let
the starter cool for 5 minutes or so. Repeat until the car starts and
runs. Run the car (1200rpm or so) until it smoothes out (this will make
sure that all the air is out of the lines.) It will sound like crap for
5 minutes or so.
-Let the car run for several minutes and check for fuel leaks at the top
of the injection pump and around the injection pipe nuts. Hopefully,
there are no leaks.
-Close the hood and clean up!
-Attempt to convince your spouse that you can now afford some
expensivenew toy with the money (probably close to $450 after allowing
for the two special sockets) that you just saved! (Let me know how well
you fare in that Endeavour!)
"John W. Reames III" <jwrea...@comcast.net>
Nice writeup. One caution. Even if you torque the delivery valves
PERFECTLY, they might still distort the injection pump body. That will
cause noise (and damage if not promptly corrected) and result in
incorrect/uneven fuel delivery. The cure is to loosen and re-torque the
delivery valve for the cylinder that's misfiring.
Even experienced pros using a torque wrench seem to distort the pump
maybe 1 out of 10 times (I'm told) and need to loosen and retighten the
valve. It may be that the earlier OM60x pumps are more touchy about this
than the later ones and I KNOW that the 6 cylinder versions are much
worse than the 4 or 5 cylinder pumps.
Marshall
I did it without removing the intake manifold, 603. I did remove the air
pipe from the turbo.Take loose Inj line clips at the bolts.Push the back
3 lines aside, butdon't try to remove them from the manifold with the
unbolted holders still clipped to the line.
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