No challenge at all once you take them to court...
-Curt

      From: Larry Turner via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Curley McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Larry Turner <l02tur...@comcast.net>
 Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 8:57 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] My 124 is idling rough (91 300D 2.5Turbo)
   
Thanks Curley -

    See my previous post.  I plan to re-test to make sure I can repeat 
the results.  Getting this very small shop to pay for a new/rebuilt IP + 
a rental car will be a challenge IMO.  Hindsight is always 20/20 - I 
never should have taken the MB there.

Larry


On 01/27/2017 4:24 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
> If # 3 is leaking noticeably less fuel than the others, you have 
> identified the problem.  They screwed up your pump!  You should demand 
> that that shop FIX IT.  The fix is to either provide you a rebuilt IP 
> or pay to have your IP rebuilt, and a rental car while yours is down.
>
> Repeat the test.  It should only take 1/3 to 2/3 turn to get the fuel 
> to squirt out and determine which cyl is weak.  If you loosen #3 and 
> the idle does not get as rough as when you loosen any other that is 
> the culprit.
>
> If #3 is indeed pumping noticeably less than the other 4, there is NO 
> NEED to remove the injectors.
>
> If #3 seems to pump the same volume as the others, then the next step 
> would be to determine the weak cyl and they swap 2  injectors to see 
> if the problem  moves.
>
> Taking out the nozzle holder does not require a special tool  you need 
> a 1 1/16" deep socket with the splines cut all the way up. Crapsman 
> used to be the easy way to find one.  I am not sure if the current 
> stuff is still the same.
>
>> Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> January 27, 2017 at 1:07 PM
>> Thanks Curley.  You're talking about removing the Injectors and 
>> that's something I have never done (never needed to til now).
>>
>> I have to decide how I want to proceed.
>>
>> BTW, before I learned the fuel lines were self bleeding, I cracked a 
>> couple of lines (maybe all of them) to see if I was getting fuel to 
>> the Injectors.  I noticed #3 acting different than the others. The 
>> others squirted fuel from the threads (depending on how much I 
>> loosened the injectors) .  So so while #3 might be a good place to  
>> start I need to repeat that process to confirm #3 has a weak stream 
>> of fuel.
>>
>> Let's say I have #3 definitely acting suspiciously - producing a 
>> dribble of fuel after loosening the nuts 1 or 2 full turns - which 
>> ever amount produces  a good flow of fuel from the others.  If #3 is 
>> showing a reduced amount of fuel getting to the Injector, I assume I 
>> have 2 options : having the Injectors tuned up/serviced as indicated 
>> my Max, or replaced with a rebuilt Injector?  Are those my options?
>>
>> I have to decide how to have the work performed - I may be forced to 
>> R&R the Injectors myself and either install a new one or have this 
>> one tuned up.  If that happens I'll need to get a lot more info about 
>> what is involved with R&R'ing the injectors.    Plus I'll need to 
>> learn more about the special tools required.  But we can address that 
>> later.
>>
>> Larry
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>> Curley McLain <mailto:126die...@gmail.com>
>> January 26, 2017 at 6:05 PM
>> If you have already changed the copper seals, springs and orings, and 
>> it still idles rough, it is time to crack the injector lines and 
>> determine which cyl is weak.  You need the heat shields because when 
>> you remove an injector holder, you are supposed to replace the heat 
>> shield (seal) between the injector nozzle and the prechamber.  For 
>> diagnosis, you can surely get by with changing the nozzle holders and 
>> leave the old heat shields in.  I have done it  and seen injection 
>> experts do it too.  If you need to clean/adjust/replace and 
>> recalibrate the nozzles, then you definitely put new heat shields in 
>> at that time.  If the problem proves to be the IP, then  you can buy 
>> a couple of heat shields and replace the ones you messed with.
>>
>>
>> Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> January 26, 2017 at 1:48 PM
>> Thanks Curley,
>> Which heat shields are you suggesting?  (602 engine)
>> So you think the problem might be in the injector?
>>
>> I won't do the above til I do the one at a time  you mentioned.
>>
>> Larry
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>> Curley McLain <mailto:126die...@gmail.com>
>> January 26, 2017 at 1:26 PM
>> 1. Crack the injector lines at the injector one at a time to 
>> determine which cyl is weak.  Make note of the weak cyl number. (Wrap 
>> a rag around the tube to lessen the fuel bath)
>> 2.  Buy 2 or more heat shields.
>> 3.  swap a strong injector with the weak one.
>> 4.  Repeat step 1. a:  If the weak cyl moved, get a new set of 
>> nozzles calibrated  and install.
>>                              b:  If the weak cyl is the same, take it 
>> back to the same shop, explain what you did, and tell them they owe 
>> you a rebuilt pump.  Install it yourself, or get someone COMPETENT to 
>> install it.
>>
>>
>> Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> January 26, 2017 at 12:56 PM
>> Hi gang,
>>
>>    Dropped the car off at a shop to fix a oil leak.  (This may be 
>> old news) The leak was coming from one of the delivery valves.  After 
>> replacing the DV O-rings I picked the car up and have had it for 
>> about a week.    The leak is gone but the car runs terribly.  Like 
>> it's running on 4 cylinders.    I bought new o-rings and redid them.  
>> No change.  It still runs bad.  I re-did the o-rings twice with no 
>> change.  Either I'm doing something basic wrong or one of the valves 
>> dropped.
>>
>> I'm trying to decide what to do next.
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>> My wife is ready to buy a new car.  I plan to call the shop but have 
>> very low expectation of them doing anything.
>>
>> When this all started I talked to this list and got your advice for 
>> rebuilding the DVs.    I followed the procedure sent to me by 
>> Curley.  It was a Very straight-forward and easy to follow procedure. 
>> (Thanks again Curley)
>>
>> I can see the shop doing it wrong,  This area isn't big on foreign 
>> cars so the shop who did the work probably works on more Fords and 
>> Chevy's than MBs.  wise I can see me doing it wrong once but not 
>> twice!  I tend to be pretty careful when working o something like the 
>> Inj,
>>
>> What to do, what to do......?
>>
>> Any ideas or thoughts?
>>
>> LarryT.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
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>>
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>
> _______________________________________
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>
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>

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