Thanks Peter -
Yeah, you're right - I need to have it done and be rid of it. My
height makes leaning over the fender or rad to reach the valve stretches
the backs of my legs which won't work as I am now configured. :-)
Thanks for the quick reply. Having to confirm it is installed
correctly will be a problem if I enlist my wife or son for help as
neither have much in the way of patience for working as you describe.
I really enjoy working on engines and always take my time but that's
hard to teach when it's not in their basic nature.
Thanks again, Back to your regular, pre-enjoyed programming....
LarryT
91 300D
On 08/26/2017 10:06 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
It's fairly easy, but rather fiddly, and I'd not do it with a knee replacement
acting up, you need to spend quite a git of time leaning over the I".
You will have to remove the boost control can from the IP, which is the fiddly
part -- unscrew the captive nut and the bottom and fiddle around until you get
it in the right position to roll out, then take out the screws that hold the
shut-off in place, unhook the rod on the bottom side and remove.
Install the new shut-off making sure you hook the roc on properly, replace the
screws.
VERIFY THAT IT'S INSTALLED RIGHT! Using an external vacuum source, pull a
vacuum on the newly installed solenoid and make SURE the shutoff lever moves
all the way down smoothly. If you don't get it hooked up right, the engine can
run away when started and will throw a rod unless you can get enough fuel lines
loose first. Keep a 14mm wrench in your hand on startup.
Replace the boost control can, which is the hard part. It is a real PITA to
get it in place and standing up properly to get the nut to engage.
Guess it depends on how long you want to stand on that knee, leaning over into
the engine compartment.
Getting old sucks.
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