Thanks that was the set of issues I suspected I might be avoiding. I am however torn on whether the ate part is worth 140 when the meyle is 80-odd and a centric or equivalent is 60-odd. I suspect all of them will last decades in regular use, but went the conservative route and splurged.
I found ate on ebay for 130. Pelican was 190. Autohausaz was 150 and they had the reservoir grommets and plug. So I used them for convenience. I am using castrol srf fluid and bought some shiny stainless lines, but of course the right front hard line fitting is seized so I ordered a new set of flare wrenches for that project. I will have to bleed it all again now so might as well figure out how to get the old lines off. I did source the 500e master as I have put the brembo dual piston fronts on with sl600 rears. The booster is stock but I rather enjoy a firm brake pedal so no matter. If anyone would like a twin piston and rotor upgrade setup for an older w124 (rears are vented and fronts are 294mm IIRC) I will be happy to box it all up for beer money plus shipping; Rotors and pads seem to have plenty of life left. They are from a later model w124 as far as I can tell. Ate stuff. One of the calipers may rub a bit but I drove it that way for two years and it still has pad left everywhere. On Mon, Oct 22, 2018, 9:47 AM Randy Bennell via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > I note that a decision has been made to get a replacement but I will > comment on this anyway. > I had the master give up on my 115 300D. I was able to get a rebuild kit > but unable to put it together to my satisfaction and ended up getting a > replacement anyway. > Not sure how this will relate to newer Mercedes, but for my vintage, it > appears that the original rebuild kits came with a thin sleeve that one > put the parts into and then slid into the bore and then removed. I did > not get the sleeve with my kit and was unable to come up with anything > that would permit me to slide the new parts in without risking damage to > the new seals. I looked around for thin tubing and made an attempt with > a wrapped piece of thin plastic but to no avail. I could have pushed > them in without the sleeve and waited to see if they had managed to slip > in without damage but was reluctant to re-assemble and find out that I > still had brake problems, so I did not do that. I gave in and ordered > the whole thing which is what I should have done at the outset. The car > was out of service for a month while I horsed around with this issue. > > RB > > On 21/10/2018 2:15 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote: > > So I have pressure bled the 124 wagon brakes about three times now and no > > air comes out any more. I drained at least a pint each caliper this time. > > No leaks from any of the calipers when pumping pedal with nipples tight. > > > > This is a non-asr car. > > > > Pedal will pump up but then goes to the floor with sustained pressure. If > > you pump it up then let up for a few seconds and push again it goes way > > down before any resistance. Probably not going to stop the car at the > foot > > of my driveway. > > > > My thought is to replace or rebuild the master cylinder, because maybe > the > > pedal was pushed too far down while bleeding. > > > > Is the collective wisdom to use ATE only, or is meyle just as good (or > > others)? And has anyone just rebuilt the original cylinder with new > seals? > > > > Thanks > > > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
