Im sure real akebono are fine. I think the point of the cert is to
distinguish real ones from counterfeit ones

On Fri, Oct 26, 2018, 1:16 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

> Thanks for sharing that article regarding ECE R90.  I wonder if the
> Akebono ceramic pads have that certification?  Have to look that up later.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
>
> On October 25, 2018 3:53:02 PM EDT, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >Interesting. Seems unlikely that the pads are in wrong, but never say
> >never. I changed all the calipers, so this isnt just a brake job.
> >
> >I found this european cert thing in an email from autohaus (finally got
> >the
> >500e master cyl today btw). Anyway it may interest the list:
> >
> >
> >See More Articles and Tech Tips at AutohausAZ.com/tech-tips.
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> ><https://mailchi.mp/autohausaz/brake-safety?e=8a74a2c8f2>.
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> >[image: Brake Safety- ECE R90]
> >
> >Brake Safety- ECE R90
> >
> >Safety has always been at the forefront of European vehicle design.
> >When
> >you hear the word “safety”, one tends to think of the passive safety
> >features such as seatbelts or airbags, or the newer active safety
> >features
> >such as lane-departure warning and traction or stability control. But
> >hands
> >down the most important safety system on a car is the braking system.
> >The
> >disc brake system on a modern car relies on a complex system of
> >hydraulics,
> >electrics, electronics, and of course human input to safely bring a
> >vehicle
> >to a stop every time. But the most fundamental pieces of the braking
> >system
> >are the mechanical bits that do the actual stopping, the brake pads and
> >rotors. These components convert the kinetic energy of a vehicle in
> >motion
> >into heat energy, using nothing more than simple friction.
> >
> >Brake pads and rotors are of course a wear item on any vehicle.
> >Depending
> >on driving style and other factors, these components may have a longer
> >or
> >shorter lifespan, but on any car they will eventually need to be
> >replaced.
> >When shopping for brake pads and rotors for your vehicle you will find
> >a
> >confusing array of parts to choose from. There are different compounds
> >of
> >pads from semi-metallic to organic to ceramic. Rotors can be
> >high-carbon,
> >coated, drilled or slotted. How is a consumer to know what the best
> >choice
> >for their vehicle is?
> >
> >Regardless of what pad compound or type of rotor you choose, a good
> >place
> >to start when shopping for brakes on a European vehicle is to choose a
> >manufacturer that offers pads and rotors that are certified to meet ECE
> >R90
> >regulations.What is ECE R90? The Economic Commission for Europe, or
> >ECE, is
> >a body that regulates certain aspects of vehicle design throughout
> >Europe
> >and has been adopted in many other regions around the world. Regulation
> >90,
> >or R90 as it is commonly known, specifies that a certified pad or rotor
> >must pass several rigorous tests to verify both the braking performance
> >and
> >physical characters of the part do not widely deviate from the OEM
> >parts
> >that originally came with the vehicle. The standard was developed in
> >response to the rise of low-cost or counterfeit aftermarket brake pads
> >and
> >rotors that did not always perform properly. This of course is a major
> >safety hazard to all drivers on the road and the ECE decided to
> >implement
> >this strict set of rules for replacement brake pads and rotors
> >beginning in
> >November of 2016. While in the US it is not a requirement for vehicles
> >to
> >be fitted with replacement parts that meet the ECE R90 spec, it is
> >highly
> >advised.
> >
> >How do you tell if a part is certified as meeting ECE R90? All parts
> >will
> >be physically marked with a code that looks like this: [image:
> >Winterizing
> >Your Vehicle], followed by a unique set of approval numbers. This mark
> >ensures that you are installing a part that meets or exceeds the
> >requirements the OEM originally specified during development of the
> >vehicle. To reduce the likelihood of counterfeit products entering the
> >market falsely claiming to meet R90, packaging will typically be sealed
> >by
> >the manufacturer and many times also includes holograms or other
> >security
> >features that are difficult to duplicate. This is an additional layer
> >of
> >security that ensures the consumer is purchasing a safe, quality
> >product.
> >
> >A leading US automotive publication was recently conducting a
> >performance
> >test of several vehicles. One vehicle, outfitted with brakes for the US
> >market, exhibited very poor stopping performance while on track and was
> >pulled from the test. The manufacturer subsequently supplied a vehicle
> >with
> >replacement pads from the European model, which would be certified as
> >meeting ECE R90. Further testing on the track showed much improved
> >braking
> >performance, simply by changing to a better-quality pad. Many US
> >consumers
> >are concerned about reducing brake dust and/or noise, but ask yourself
> >this
> >question: when the safety of you and your family is on the line does it
> >matter if your wheels are slightly dirtier or you hear a squeak from
> >time
> >to time? Wheels can be cleaned, but lives cannot be replaced.
> >
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> >On Tue, Oct 23, 2018, 12:24 PM Trampas Stern via Mercedes <
> >mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> If you replaced the brakes make sure the pads are in place correctly.
> > I
> >> worked at a shop once where mechanic put pads on wrong (pads not in
> >the
> >> guides) on a Toyota.  The results were that when you pressed break
> >peddle
> >> it would bend the brake pad which acted like a spring, when you
> >released
> >> the break peddle it would push calipers back in.  The brakes felt
> >like they
> >> needed bleed and would "pump up".  They replaced master cylinder
> >twice
> >> before they got me to look at it.
> >> I asked:
> >> "Did it stop before you did the brake job?"
> >> "Yes"
> >> "Then let's check that you did the brake job correctly..."
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 12:46 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> > I note that a decision has been made to get a replacement but I
> >will
> >> > comment on this anyway.
> >> > I had the master give up on my 115 300D. I was able to get a
> >rebuild kit
> >> > but unable to put it together to my satisfaction and ended up
> >getting a
> >> > replacement anyway.
> >> > Not sure how this will relate to newer Mercedes, but for my
> >vintage,  it
> >> > appears that the original rebuild kits came with a thin sleeve that
> >one
> >> > put the parts into and then slid into the bore and then removed. I
> >did
> >> > not get the sleeve with my kit and was unable to come up with
> >anything
> >> > that would permit me to slide the new parts in without risking
> >damage to
> >> > the new seals. I looked around for thin tubing and made an attempt
> >with
> >> > a wrapped piece of thin plastic but to no avail. I could have
> >pushed
> >> > them in without the sleeve and waited to see if they had managed to
> >slip
> >> > in without damage but was reluctant to re-assemble and find out
> >that I
> >> > still had brake problems, so I did not do that. I gave in and
> >ordered
> >> > the whole thing which is what I should have done at the outset. The
> >car
> >> > was out of service for a month while I horsed around with this
> >issue.
> >> >
> >> > RB
> >> >
> >> > On 21/10/2018 2:15 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote:
> >> > > So I have pressure bled the 124 wagon brakes about three times
> >now and
> >> no
> >> > > air comes out any more. I drained at least a pint each caliper
> >this
> >> time.
> >> > > No leaks from any of the calipers when pumping pedal with nipples
> >> tight.
> >> > >
> >> > > This is a non-asr car.
> >> > >
> >> > > Pedal will pump up but then goes to the floor with sustained
> >pressure.
> >> If
> >> > > you pump it up then let up for a few seconds and push again it
> >goes
> >> way
> >> > > down before any resistance. Probably not going to stop the car at
> >the
> >> > foot
> >> > > of my driveway.
> >> > >
> >> > > My thought is to replace or rebuild the master cylinder, because
> >maybe
> >> > the
> >> > > pedal was pushed too far down while bleeding.
> >> > >
> >> > > Is the collective wisdom to use ATE only, or is meyle just as
> >good (or
> >> > > others)? And has anyone just rebuilt the original cylinder with
> >new
> >> > seals?
> >> > >
> >> > > Thanks
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > _______________________________________
> >> > http://www.okiebenz.com
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> >> >
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