My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
pump oil gun.
I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
want it under the hood].

With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake fluid
from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.

When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove the
line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the cap...

At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and you
should have a clutch that works.


On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>
>
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