The cylinder came with 2 rods, the one already installed on it the
instructions say are for 123, the other rod is for 126. I have
completely disconnected it from the clutch pedal so length should not
matter as far as bleeding goes. I am going to try the oil can method
next with a longer piece of hose so I can watch what is happening with
the reservoir.
On 7/4/2020 2:12 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
Kaleb,
Port of last resort, try stacking some washers under the master cyl till
you get some free travel at the clutch pedal, not as a permanent fix, but
to get a clutch that works..
At the moment, I'm almost convinced the rod is too long... bring the car
closer to computer so I can have a better look at the issue .... ;))))
On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 11:45 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
I don’t feel any resistance what so ever when pushing the pedal. What I
have done today is I unbolted the rod from the pedal so it is all the way
up, still continuing with the line hooked from brake caliper to slave
cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several minutes, closed the bleed
port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal (which requires being
pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went thru this several
times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil squirt cans and
will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from under the car and
pump fluid in while watching the reservoir.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should
have
1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
pressure engagement.
If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be
letting
fluid into the piston to push the slave.
No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no
clutch...
Is there an adjuster on the rod?
Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it
possible
to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
done one.
On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
the top on its own if you pop it up a little
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
stays
on better.
As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
should
return to up position... is the return spring OK?
On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
Something like this?
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
hand
pump oil gun.
I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
output
pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
not
tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you
don't
want it under the hood].
With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
fluid
from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
Check
the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill
it.
When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
have
displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and
remove
the
line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
cap...
At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system
and
you
should have a clutch that works.
On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now
down
to
bleeding it. I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
pedal
action (pedal stays down, does not come back up). I seem to recall
reading something about certain brands of replacement master
cylinder
the rod does not come all the way back up. I do know on this one in
order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
an
8th of an inch or so. I may unbolt it from the pedal and try
bleeding
it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
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