Don, I think Mitch's car has rack and pinion, not recirculating ball, so inner 
end of the rod is different.

Mitch, I like the water soaked rag idea, I've used that several times when 
brazing copper tubing and didn't want to destroy the seals in the valve just 
inches away from the joint.  Heat the rusty joint red hot at the far end, the 
water soaked rag will protect the bellows end.  I'd position the rag so mostly 
on the metal part of the rod near the bellows, and keep it dripping wet if 
possible.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC


Dec 14, 2020 3:44:06 PM OK Don via Mercedes <[email protected]>:

> Back in the day of Rusty, it was reasonable to buy the whole tie rod with
> ends already installed. I did that for W115 and W107 cars ...
> 
> On Mon, Dec 14, 2020 at 12:52 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
> [email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> The rod end is rusted onto the tie rod and won't unscrew, at least not
>> to the holding power of a 15mm open end wrench on the rod, or a 10" vice
>> grip. My baby pipe wrench, with jaws thin enough to put on the little
>> bit of rod that's exposed, had less grip than the vice grips.
>> 
>> I can try heating it, but the rubber bellows over the inner rod end puts
>> a limit on that.
>> 
>> Any brilliant ideas for getting the rod end off the rod?
>> As I was typing this, I wondered if the wrench flats were wide enough
>> for two 15mm open ends.
>> Will try that next, along with a bit of heat.
>> Wish I had some Kroil handy instead of this Liquid Wrench I soaked it in
>> yesterday.
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 
> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> pause and reflect." Mark Twain
> 
> “Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
> Von Braun
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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> 
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