electronic leak detector
archer wrote:
If you convert to 134-A can you then go back to R-12 using your 134-A set of
gauges? R-134-A doesn't do a very good job of cooling my MBs.
I'm currently trying to find a "second" leak in an '83 300D. The first one
was the pressure switch on top of the dryer which is now fixed. I'm using
UV dye to look for the leaks, and I've wasted four cans of Freon trying to
find it under the hood.
Can someone tell me the best way to find it under the dash since that must
be where it is?
Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <Mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times
Isobutane/propane refrigerant will work very nicely. However, if you
have a leak, air leaks in while the hydrocarbons leak out, and you can
get an explosive mixture fairly easily. The result can be a detonating
compressor (don't laugh, I've seen it). You also risk a large
explosion if you have an accident that punctures the condenser.
You must indeed charge by pressure, adding 2.2 lbs of propane will
definitely burst something. When whatever it is ruptures, you can get
a propane/air explosion.
R134a isn't much more expensive, is inert, and conversion isn't that
hard.
Peter
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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
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