If you allow the paint to dry more than 24 hours, it is recommended to use 400 grit sand paper. The sanding will permit a course surface for the next layer to paint to bond too.... if you apply the next layer of paint before 24 hours, the paint is tacky, permitting a good bond with the next layer.. I prefer applying the next layer when the paint is tacky 12 to under 24 hours which is a chemical bond between layer....
Source: Paint auto suppliers:

Bill
1981 300 TD



John Peterson wrote:
Those are good prices- I did all 4 wheels this year, prep is key as with any paint job. Light coats of the paint, sanding slightly with 400 between. Then the lacquer, 4 coats and sand before the last one. I think they turned out perfect- hard pressed to see the difference from factory.

Durability is unknown at this point, they have lasted 6 mo so far.

John Peterson
1991 300D 2.5 79k
Wurth Wheels

Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:
John Peterson posted a while ago about his experience with 124 wheel
paint. Can't remember the source.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co.

Has anyone found any place with low prices on Wurth or equivilent silver paint for alloy wheels? I'll need the clear also - Griots has a Wurth equiv individually or as a package for $60 including 2 cans of
silver and 2 of clear, a silicone, etc cleaner and zinc spray to stabilize the surface.
  The
individual can of ciler and clear are $9.99 each.
In the past, listers have given good reports about both products. Most important seems to be preparation of the wheels and using VERY many light coats.

Marshall

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