Sory for the miss understanding folks, I have a block heater all ready.  This 
is the drain plug forward of that and it is just forward of the alternator,  In 
the manual and real life looks like a Hex head bolt/plug , not a bolt plug w 
allen type head (like the differential fill and drain plugs)??

When I flush next time looking to pull this drain plug.  Thanks for the 
information any way it is always valuable.

Tom Scordato
Bellefonte PA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <>
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Engine Block Drain Plug

>> Assume engine drain plug has never been removed.
> And assuming you're talking about the things of which there
> are (potentially) three or so along the waterline of the block.
> In one of which the block heater goes, in other words.  It's a
> freeze plug, not a drain, in that you can drain more out the
> front by removing the water pump housing.  (More later.) The
> reason for that row of holes is for manufacturing of the block,
> not for draining out the coolant at random times.
>> 1. Best way to access from above or below?;
> Above, I've found.  After removing alternator, radiator, and manifolds.
>> 2.  Size of drain plug, looks to be between 17 mm and 20 mm what is it
>> please?
> 19mm or 3/4".  Microscopic difference between the two, well below
> manufacturing tolerance for that rather crude plug.
>> 3.  Is there rachet extention set combo that will work?
> Extensions are no good, we're talking a _lot_ of torque required.
> With an extension you get too much side torque, you can't keep
> the 'elbow' in place.  You do _not_ want to ream out the hex on
> the plug!  That's why you remove the manifolds and all that
> other crap.  That lets you get the 3/4" drive socket set on
> there without extensions.  Removing the radiator is so you can
> put a cheater bar on it.  A few feet ought to do it.  I used
> my Harbor Freight socket set, and a fencepost driver as a cheat.
>> 4.  The drain plug does it need a seal or some thread puddy when you
>> reinstall it.
> It's puttied when installed by the factory.  That's why you
> need real heat (read: acetylene) to remove it.  The application
> of which is why you need to drain the block first (out the front)
> to get the area above boiling heat.
>> 5.  If it has not been removed will it take a gorrilla from the Bronz 
>> Zoo to
>> do it?
> Ook ook, my man.
>> Anything else you can share please.  Want to flush the right way.
> Don't bother if flushing is your game.  Pull the water pump housing
> instead.  You remove those plugs to replace one with a block heater.
> (And if you had one, it's easily unscrewed when compared to that
> wretched plug.)  And for normal flushing you don't need to do this
> either, popping open a heater line is sufficient.
> Did I mention that this job is a major PITA?  And that I've heard
> tell of a cracked block or two when the job goes wrong?
> You can dig my tale out of:
> -- Jim
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What was once chocolate brown carpet, has been reduced to a light tan
mat the crumbles on touch. The result of years in the sun under the
large rear window of the SLC.
What are you using to replace this? Are you happy with the results?
I'm not trying to restore this car to original condition, just
reasonable appearance so no one is embarrassed driving it around.

Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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