Maybe a bad throwout bearing?  I've heard of some having problems with the 
Mazda plastic sleeve units.  Mine's making noise now, with maybe 15k on it.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Steve Willington 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 3:41 PM
  Subject: Re: Clutch problems


  Update on this - and request for ideas.

  Finally managed to get a day free and spent an hour or so having a go at 
solving this. 

  To date I've now replaced the slave and master cylinders. I've also tried 
setting the peddle engagement and height twice, once just engaging off the 
floor and now engaging about an inch off the floor. The peddle push rod has 
some slack in it when the peddle is raised and I can also push the slave 
cylinder push rod in by hand, again when the peddle is up. No notable change - 
still refuses to occasionally go into gear, most often when cold.

  I'll try setting the engagement somewhere in between on Sunday - say 1/2" off 
the ground, but I am not hopeful. 

  It's been suggested it may be a failed pilot bearing (although this was new 
when the clutch/flywheel went in about 1000 - 1500 miles ago), so the next step 
I guess will be to pull the tranny and take a look inside, but in the mean time 
I would be grateful of any suggestions/ideas as to what it may be or where to 
look. 


  Steve.
  www.slowmx5.com



  ----- Original Message ----
  From: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; [email protected]
  Sent: Sunday, 30 March, 2008 2:59:11 AM
  Subject: Re: Clutch problems

   
  With my prototype ACT clutch I had to reduce the free play to about 1/32 inch 
and even then it engaged with the pedal 1/2 inch off the floor.
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Steve Willington 
    To: [email protected] 
    Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 3:00 PM
    Subject: Re: Clutch problems


    OK, had a look at the clutch free play - about 1/3 of an inch. Should be OK 
- might even have a little more there to play with?

    The other thing I have discovered, among the grease, is a small amount of 
hydraulic fluid below the push rod. At least it has the consistency of 
hydraulic fluid and not grease. Now it has not been enough to notice any loss 
at the reservoir but given my very, very low engagement point it could be 
enough????? New master cylinder?


    Steve.
    www.slowmx5.com 



    ----- Original Message ----
    From: Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
    To: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; [email protected]
    Sent: Saturday, 29 March, 2008 9:38:52 PM
    Subject: Re: Clutch problems


    I guess I should check this again. The peddle should have a small amount of 
free play indicating that there is slack between the push rod and master 
cylinder, yes? 


    Steve.
    www.slowmx5.com 



    ----- Original Message ----
    From: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
    To: Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; [email protected]
    Sent: Saturday, 29 March, 2008 9:05:31 PM
    Subject: Re: Clutch problems

     
    Perhaps you've already adjusted your pedal pushrod too far and the master 
isn't refilling properly when you let the pedal up.  There should be a small 
but greater-than-zero gap between the pedal pushrod and the master cyl when the 
pedal is all the way up ... at all temperatures.
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Steve Willington 
      To: Ray Ayala ; [email protected] 
      Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 12:54 PM
      Subject: Re: Clutch problems


      I sorta guessed that and is the reason I went with the shorter new rod. 
Still was hoping it might be a quick fix to give me more peddle travel.

      How much adjustment is there in the MX5 hydraulic system? How will I know 
when I have adjusted it too far?

      BTW could there be anything mechanically wrong to give me these issues? 
Perhaps I am concentrating on the hydraulic system and should be looking 
elsewhere?


      Steve.
      www.slowmx5.com 



      ----- Original Message ----
      From: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
      To: Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; [email protected]
      Sent: Saturday, 29 March, 2008 5:15:24 PM
      Subject: Re: Clutch problems

       
      Push rod length is immaterial unless there is a gap at the end of the 
push rod when at rest.  A slightly smaller bore in the slave or a slightly 
larger bore in the master will improve the situation.  Note that new cylinders 
tend to have a smaller bore and rebuilt ones tend to have a larger bore.  You 
might want to take your master cylinder to a shop to have the bore enlarged but 
if you over-do it the slave piston may extend too much and possibly even eject 
from its bore.
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Steve Willington 
        To: [email protected] 
        Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 7:10 AM
        Subject: Clutch problems


        All,

        Looking for ideas on a clutch problem I'm having. I installed a new 
clutch assembly and flywheel a wheel a few months back. Initially it would not 
disengage properly at all but after breaking it in it got a lot better - but it 
still dis-engages just off the floor (lower than my ACT xtreme). Just recently 
it has occasionally refused to let me put the car into gear at all, especially 
when cold. It also seems to get a little worse the longer the clutch is down 
(although it bits practically on the floor so any change is noticeable).

        I changed the slave cylinder today to see if this would help - and it 
has made no difference, if anything, made things a little worse. On installing 
I noticed that the new slave cylinder 'push rod' is a little shorter than the 
original, by about 3 or 4mm (i.e. the distance between contacting the slave 
cylinders piston and the point the rod contacts the clutch release fork). Would 
installing the slightly longer rod give me more peddle travel/adjustment?

        Would replacing the master cylinder help at all? Anything else I can 
try? The peddle has been adjusted as far as it can be.


        Steve.
        www.slowmx5.com 




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