Update on this - and request for ideas.

Finally managed to get a day free and spent an hour or so having a go at 
solving this. 

To date I've now replaced the slave and master cylinders. I've also tried 
setting the peddle engagement and height twice, once just engaging off the 
floor and now engaging about an inch off the floor. The peddle push rod has 
some slack in it when the peddle is raised and I can also push the slave 
cylinder push rod in by hand, again when the peddle is up. No notable change - 
still refuses to occasionally go into gear, most often when cold.

I'll try setting the engagement somewhere in between on Sunday - say 1/2" off 
the ground, but I am not hopeful. 

It's been suggested it may be a failed pilot bearing (although this wasnew when 
the clutch/flywheel went in about 1000 - 1500 miles ago), so the next step I 
guess will be to pull the tranny and take a look inside, but in the mean time I 
would be grateful of any suggestions/ideas as to what it may be or where to 
look. 
 
Steve.
www.slowmx5.com

----- Original Message ----
From: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, 30 March, 2008 2:59:11 AM
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

 DIV {
MARGIN:0px;}
With my prototype ACT clutch I had to reduce the 
free play to about 1/32 inch and even then it engaged with the pedal 1/2 inch 
off the floor.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From:   Steve 
  Willington 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 3:00   PM
  Subject: Re: Clutch problems
  

  OK,   had a look at the clutch free play - about 1/3 of an inch. Should be OK 
-   might even have a little more there to play with?

The other thing I   have discovered, among the grease, is a small amount of 
hydraulic fluid below   the push rod. At least it has the consistency of 
hydraulic fluid and not   grease. Now it has not been enough to notice any loss 
at the reservoir but   given my very, very low engagement point it could be 
enough????? New master   cylinder?
   
Steve.
www.slowmx5.com  

  -----   Original Message ----
From: Steve Willington   <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;   [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, 29 March, 2008 9:38:52   PM
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

  I   guess I should check this again. The peddle should have a small amount of 
free   play indicating that there is slack between the push rod and master 
cylinder,   yes? 
   
Steve.
www.slowmx5.com  

  -----   Original Message ----
From: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:   Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;   [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, 29 March, 2008 9:05:31   PM
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

   DIV {
MARGIN:0px;}
  Perhaps you've already adjusted your pedal 
  pushrod too far and the master isn't refilling properly when you let the 
pedal 
  up.  There should be a small but greater-than-zero gap between the pedal 
  pushrod and the master cyl when the pedal is all the way up ... at all 
  temperatures.
      ----- 
    Original Message ----- 
    From:     Steve 
    Willington 
    To:     Ray Ayala ; [email protected]     
    Sent:     Saturday, March 29, 2008 12:54 PM
    Subject:     Re: Clutch problems
    

    I     sorta guessed that and is the reason I went with the shorter new rod. 
Still     was hoping it might be a quick fix to give me more peddle travel.

How     much adjustment is there in the MX5 hydraulic system? How will I know 
when I     have adjusted it too far?

BTW could there be anything mechanically     wrong to give me these issues? 
Perhaps I am concentrating on the hydraulic     system and should be looking 
elsewhere?
     
Steve.
www.slowmx5.com     

    -----     Original Message ----
From: Ray Ayala <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:     Steve Willington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;     [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, 29 March, 2008 5:15:24     PM
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

     DIV {
MARGIN:0px;}
    Push rod length is immaterial unless there is a 
    gap at the end of the push rod when at rest.  A slightly smaller 
    bore in the slave or a slightly larger bore in the master will improve the 
    situation.  Note that new cylinders tend to have a smaller bore and 
    rebuilt ones tend to have a larger bore.  You might want to take your 
    master cylinder to a shop to have the bore enlarged but if you over-do it 
    the slave piston may extend too much and possibly even eject from its 
    bore.
          ----- 
      Original Message ----- 
      From:       Steve 
      Willington 
      To:       [email protected]       
      Sent:       Saturday, March 29, 2008 7:10 AM
      Subject:       Clutch problems
      

      All,

Looking       for ideas on a clutch problem I'm having. I installed a new 
clutch       assembly and flywheel a wheel a few months back. Initially it 
would not       disengage properly at all but after breaking it in it got a lot 
better -       but it still dis-engages just off the floor (lower than my ACT 
xtreme).       Just recently it has occasionally refused to let me put the car 
into gear       at all, especially when cold. It also seems to get a little 
worse the       longer the clutch is down (although it bits practically on the 
floor so       any change is noticeable).

I changed the slave cylinder today to       see if this would help - and it has 
made no difference, if anything, made       things a little worse. On 
installing I noticed that the new slave cylinder       'push rod' is a little 
shorter than the original, by about 3 or 4mm (i.e.       the distance between 
contacting the slave cylinders piston and the point       the rod contacts the 
clutch release fork). Would installing the slightly       longer rod give me 
more peddle travel/adjustment?

Would replacing       the master cylinder help at all? Anything else I can try? 
The peddle has       been adjusted as far as it can be.
       
Steve.
www.slowmx5.com       


      
      
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