You're an old guy like me, the days when a 10 spot would buy a gasket. Good
luck with things!  BZ

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce Labitt
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 8:14 PM
To: MiataPower
Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?

On 4/12/2011 11:17 AM, Bill Cardell wrote:
> Interesting intro ;-) Head gaskets don't fail too often on these
> engines, despite the iron block/aluminum head, although all bets are off
> on a high mileage turbo car such as Bruce's. If it were me, at that
> mileage I'd just pick up a used engine or take the opportunity to do a
> 1.8 swap.

It is a 94, so I have the original 1.8.  It is only 105K on 
it.  IIRC 65K with boost.  Barely broken in :)

I'll run a leakdown test anyways - should check for all 
sorts of woes.  Hopefully won't be too surprising.  If the 
results of the leakdown test are surprising, well, then time 
for a used engine.  Probably build up the old one if it 
isn't mucked up.

My first car I bought (not a miata) had a blown head 
gasket.  I bought it for $100, knowing it had a bad gasket.  
Drove it home with bad HG.  That was fun, though a little 
slow.  Felpro gasket cost < $10.  Twenty minutes later, 
(including a warp check, ) got that little sucker running 
again.  I got my money's worth out of that little beater.

-Bruce

> Your test sounds like a good one for the head gasket. It might be worth
> looking under a Miata hood to see that the water pump is not driven by
> the timing belt before condemning a stack of people...
> I have seen an impeller spin on the shaft only once in the past 30 years
> of wrench turning, on an Audi Fox. It's conceivable on a Miata, but not
> where I'd look first.
>
>
> Bill Cardell
> TurboDog's Dad
> Flyin' Miata
> 1-800-359-6967 (sales)
> 970-464-5600 (tech support)
> www.flyinmiata.com
> www.fmwestfield.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of bill zimmerman
> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 9:07 PM
> To: 'Ross Kuhns'; 'Bruce Labitt'
> Cc: 'MiataPower'
> Subject: RE: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
>
> OK, you admit to getting it PFH (pretty effin hot) and now all it will
> do is overheat. Aluminum head, iron block, surefire recipe for head
> gasket failure, but all the dreamers want to put a pump on it and roll.
> Broken shaft in water pump? With the timing belt still running in place,
> be sure and get pictures of that. Try filling it with water when it's
> stone cold and put a pressure test on the cooling system (you can borrow
> a tester from AutoZone). Leave it under pressure for about 30 minutes
> and see if there is any drop in pressure, indicating a leak. No pressure
> drop, start it and try to warm it up, not cooking hot, but well off the
> cold side of the dial, and run a compression test while hot. I have seen
> overheated gaskets that would only start to leak as engine temps started
> to rise. If you do the timing belt, water pump deal without doing this
> and it still overheats, you will be very pissed at yourself for a long,
> long time.
>
> I haven't been on this list for a long time but I have pulled wrenches
> for a lot of my life and the more I read here, the more I am convinced
> that many of you should not be allowed to own wrenches.
>
> Best of luck and I really hope that the dream comes true and you don't
> have a head gasket problem.  BZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ross Kuhns
> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 10:25 PM
> To: Bruce Labitt
> Cc: MiataPower
> Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
>
> Well, if the pump shaft broke or something, I still think you should
> just pull the belt and see if it spins very freely, or grinds or does
> some damned 'wrong' thing.
>
> Didn't you have the timing belt done recently? did they do the water
> pump too? should be under warranty 'if' it is the pump...
>
>
> Ross
>
> On Apr 11, 2011, at 9:13 PM, Bruce Labitt wrote:
>
>> On 4/11/2011 9:00 PM, Donni wrote:
>>> Sounds water pump-y.....
>>>
>>>
>> Grumble.  So it would seem.  Anything else I *should* be fixing while
>> I'm
> in there?
>> 1) water pump
>> 2) timing belt / seals
>> 3) ?
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>>> On Apr 11, 2011, at 7:33 PM, Bruce
>>> Labitt<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>>> On 4/11/2011 7:05 PM, Larry Alster wrote:
>>>>> For the freeze plug to be your problem you would have to be losing
> fluid
>>>>> from the system.  Are you??
>>>>>
>>>> No, I have no visible leak.  I am unaware of any leak.  My first
> indication of trouble was an overheat this spring.  I let it idle to
> warm up.  While I was doing something else I noticed the rad cap
> geysering.  I shut it down rather quickly.  When it cooled down, I
> refilled the radiator.
> Fired it up again and it overheats.
>>>> Tried running without the cap.  Did not see evidence of obvious flow
>>>> in
> radiator.  No obvious bubbles like a bad head gasket leak to coolant.
>>>> Bruce
>>>>> Larry Alster
>>>>>
>>>>> 91 Miata  White Knight
>>>>> 92 Miata  Silver Bullet
>>>>> 92 Miata  Honey B
>>>>> 04 MSM MX-5 Whooosh
>>>>> 06 WRX STi Subie
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: [email protected]
>>>>> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce
>>>>> Labitt
>>>>> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 7:04 PM
>>>>> To: MiataPower
>>>>> Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
>>>>>
>>>>> On 4/11/2011 12:16 PM, Donni Howell wrote:
>>>>>> I may have missed it among all the replies, but I didn't see any
>>>>>> mention of core plugs (freeze plug/expansion plug or whatever you
>>>>>> choose to call them). I had a '96 that would overheat all the
>>>>>> time. I chased the problem for almost a year. Replaced radiator,
>>>>>> cap, had recently replaced water pump. Nothing worked and I had
>>>>>> given up. I lost some coolant but never found a leak.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> One day while doing some suspension work on the left side of the
>>>>>> car, I noticed a rusty streak on the side of the block - under the
>>>>>> exhaust manifold. I followed that up to a hole in the block where
>>>>>> a core plug used to live. It was a hidden leak that must have
>>>>>> burned off any trace of water while driving, so I never saw any
>>>>>> water on the ground. I replaced it with one from Mazda (2 from
>>>>>> NAPA wouldn't fit for some reason) and problem solved.
>>>>>>
>>>>> Nahh, did not even think about freeze plugs.  Did you replace them
>>>>> with the engine in the car?
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 9:58 PM, bill zimmerman
>>>>>> <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>    wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      Now we're at the root of the problem, why did it
>>>>>>      overheat, not because of
>>>>>>      the heater core. It may have had a bad radiator,
>>>>>>      leaking and you didn't
>>>>>>      notice it, or it might be a bad water pump, also
>>>>>>      leaking and you didn't
>>>>>>      notice it, either way, low on coolant and overheating.
>>>>>>      Very good chance you
>>>>>>      have a warped head and leaking head gasket at this
>>>>>>      point, check for water in
>>>>>>      the oil, oil residue in the radiator, and do a
>>>>>>      compression check. Go forward
>>>>>>      from there, from the way you describe it I'm pretty
>>>>>>      sure you are going to
>>>>>>      find a head gasket problem.  BZ
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>      From: [email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      [mailto:[email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>] On Behalf
>>>>>>      Of Bruce Labitt
>>>>>>      Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 7:59 PM
>>>>>>      To: [email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      On 4/10/2011 7:42 PM, bill zimmerman wrote:
>>>>>>      >    Late coming in on this and have not read other posts
>>>>>>      but if your problem
>>>>>>      >    came after any cooling system work, hose
>>>>>>      replacement, etc, make sure you
>>>>>>      >    don't have an air lock in the system, which
>>>>>>      frequently will result in no
>>>>>>      >    heat from the heater while everything else functions
>>>>>>      normally. Would not
>>>>>>      >    suspect a water pump problem if the motor is not
>>>>>>      overheating or signs of
>>>>>>      >    leakage around the pump.  BZ
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      Original problem - overheat - radiator cap let go -
>>>>>>      coolant
>>>>>>      everywhere.  Replaced cap, added water - trouble ever
>>>>>>      since.  Engine overheats.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      Could be air lock.  How do you get rid of it?  I used a
>>>>>>      coolant funnel attached to radiator cap.  Attempted to
>>>>>>      squeeze hoses...  Car is not level right now.  Front
>>>>>>      end is
>>>>>>      on jackstands.  Problem?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      >    -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>      >    From: [email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      >    [mailto:[email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>] On Behalf
>>>>>>      Of Bruce Labitt
>>>>>>      >    Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 7:22 PM
>>>>>>      >    To: [email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      >    Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater
>>>>>>      Core or?
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >    On 4/10/2011 5:25 PM, Ross Kuhns wrote:
>>>>>>      >>    If the hoses are only a year old, they should come off;
>>>>>>      >>    take a pair of slotted type pliers/grips and you can
>>>>>>      >>    usually work them back and forth a touch as you pull -
>>>>>>      >>    tool is set perpendicular to the pipe/hose. Of course
>>>>>>      >>    don't squeeze too hard, those pipes are soft. If
>>>>>>      you try
>>>>>>      >>    to confirm flow thru the core, make sure not to use too
>>>>>>      >>    much psi, system doesn't run under too much
>>>>>>      pressure (what
>>>>>>      >>    13psi?).
>>>>>>      >>
>>>>>>      >>    Ross
>>>>>>      >>
>>>>>>      >>
>>>>>>      >>
>>>>>>      >>    On Apr 10, 2011, at 4:34 PM, Ken Bogart wrote:
>>>>>>      >>
>>>>>>      >>>    I would flush the heater core to verify flow. If its
>>>>>>      >>>    blocked and needs replacement, a temporary bypass will
>>>>>>      >>>    certainly work to keep you on the road.
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>    Ken Bogart
>>>>>>      >>>    -----------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>      >>>    96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His)
>>>>>>      >>>    97 Black&     Tan (Hers)
>>>>>>      >>>    90 Crystal White (sons)
>>>>>>      >>>    ------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>      >>>    http://www.miatacare.com<http://www.miatacare.com/>
>>>>>>      >>>    http://www.cincimiata.com<http://www.cincimiata.com/>
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      http://www.bcchallenger.org<http://www.bcchallenger.org/>
>>>>>>      >>>    MiataMail.com<http://MiataMail.com>     list owner
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>    On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Bruce Labitt
>>>>>>      >>>    <[email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      >>>    <mailto:[email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>>>     wrote:
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>         I'm trying to diagnose if I have either a bad
>>>>>>      water
>>>>>>      >>>         pump, or just a clogged heater core.  The
>>>>>>      hose at the
>>>>>>      >>>         output of the heater core has been spliced to
>>>>>>      insert
>>>>>>      >>>         a GM temperature sensor in the line.  [Other
>>>>>>      than the
>>>>>>      >>>         temp sensor splice, the cooling system is stock.]
>>>>>>      >>>          The GM sensor is reading correctly - it
>>>>>>      reads cold
>>>>>>      >>>         and the heater line *is* cold. However, at
>>>>>>      the back
>>>>>>      >>>         of the head, the sensor which goes to the
>>>>>>      dash reads
>>>>>>      >>>         very hot (after the engine has warmed up, of
>>>>>>      course).
>>>>>>      >>>          It is as if there is no flow out the back of
>>>>>>      the head.
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>         Things I've tried:
>>>>>>      >>>         0.  Removed thermostat, put housing back.  Still
>>>>>>      >>>         overheats.  Have new tstat, but have not
>>>>>>      installed.
>>>>>>      >>>         1.  Remove GM sensor splice, and inspect the
>>>>>>      inline
>>>>>>      >>>         housing.  Can see daylight through the hose
>>>>>>      >>>         connections. Conclusion: temp sensor housing
>>>>>>      is not
>>>>>>      >>>         clogged and not impeding coolant flow.
>>>>>>      >>>         2.  Added classic coolant flush tee in place
>>>>>>      of the
>>>>>>      >>>         inline temp sensor.  Flushed 12 gallons thru
>>>>>>      system.
>>>>>>      >>>          Pretty ugly looking coolant, if I must say
>>>>>>      so.  It
>>>>>>      >>>         still does not quite look like clean water,
>>>>>>      but it is
>>>>>>      >>>         far more water like than before.
>>>>>>      >>>         3.  Put back GM temp sensor.
>>>>>>      >>>         4.  Refilled with water.  Installed a burp
>>>>>>      bucket on
>>>>>>      >>>         radiator, ran engine.  Filled bucket 1/3 way.
>>>>>>       Bottom
>>>>>>      >>>         rad hose does not seem like it is full of
>>>>>>      coolant.
>>>>>>      >>>          Feels like it is not uniformly hot.  Tried
>>>>>>      squeezing
>>>>>>      >>>         hoses, etc to burp.  Not much happened with
>>>>>>      respect
>>>>>>      >>>         to coolant level. Engine heated up - back of head
>>>>>>      >>>         sensor showed quite warm - heater core loop quite
>>>>>>      >>>         cool to the touch.
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>         What I'm going to do next:
>>>>>>      >>>         1.  Bypass heater core.  Is there an 'easy'
>>>>>>      way to
>>>>>>      >>>         get these hoses off?  I cut them when I
>>>>>>      replaced them
>>>>>>      >>>         last summer. Are they 'welded' on by now?
>>>>>>      >>>         2. Maybe, flush core, if above works.
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>         Anything else?
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>         _______________________________________________
>>>>>>      >>>         Miatapower mailing list
>>>>>>      >>>    [email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      >>>    <mailto:[email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>>
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      >>>    _______________________________________________
>>>>>>      >>>    Miatapower mailing list
>>>>>>      >>>    [email protected]
>>>>>>
> <mailto:[email protected]><mailto:[email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>>
>>>>>>      >>>
>>>>>>      http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>>>      >    Well, I didn't quite do things in order.  I flushed the
>>>>>>      >    heater core.  (Pulled heater hoses, attached garden hose
>>>>>>      >    with anti-backflow to one side, attached 6 foot hose to
>>>>>>      >    bucket on the other side.)  Nasty, but eventually
>>>>>>      ran sort
>>>>>>      >    of clear.  So it is NOT the heater core.  Loads of
>>>>>>      water ran
>>>>>>      >    through it - it does not appear to be a restriction.  No
>>>>>>      >    water in the cabin, either - thank goodness.
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >    Then I back flushed the head.  In the water neck in
>>>>>>      the back
>>>>>>      >    of the head - out the other pipe to the heater core.
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >    Hooked everything up again.  Filled through burping
>>>>>>      funnel.
>>>>>>      >    No apparent flow through the core.  However, the
>>>>>>      thermostat
>>>>>>      >    is NOT installed.
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >    Is the thermostat required for the heater core to
>>>>>>      get water
>>>>>>      >    flow?
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >    I have a standard new Stant thermostat.  Do I need
>>>>>>      to drill
>>>>>>      >    out the 'jiggler'?  Hole size?  Hole is up, correct?
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >    Is there a good test for a water pump?  Looks like I'm
>>>>>>      >    running out of ideas.  Carried off 50 gallons of
>>>>>>      'water'.
>>>>>>      >    What a fruitless day.
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >    Got insight?
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >    Thanks
>>>>>>      >    _______________________________________________
>>>>>>      >    Miatapower mailing list
>>>>>>      >    [email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>      >
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      _______________________________________________
>>>>>>      Miatapower mailing list
>>>>>>      [email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>>>
>>>>>>      _______________________________________________
>>>>>>      Miatapower mailing list
>>>>>>      [email protected]
>>>>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>>>      http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> "It is rightly acknowledged that people of faith have no monopoly
>>>>>> of virtue..."
>>>>>> -Queen Elizabeth II
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Miatapower mailing list
>>>>>> [email protected]
>>>>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Miatapower mailing list
>>>>> [email protected]
>>>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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