I completely transformed my standard 24x24x12 garage by finishing it and adding
heat.
( I plan to build my own garage-mahal soon, so things were done with the idea
that this isnt a permanent solution. Regardless, It
works quite well.)
Walls and Ceiling
- The walls are insulated and covered with ½ OSB.
+ Not as good as plywood for holding screws. Great for impact resistance
compared to drywall
+ OSB is secured with screws so I can removal panels to add electrical or
whatever.
- The walls and ceiling are painted gloss white.
+ The white helps brighten it up. The glossy paint is great for keeping it
clean
Storage
- I have a LOT of Gladiator garage cabinets from Sears. Purchased on sale. It
helps keep everything clean and organized.
+ I hung them on the tracks they sell. Great for rearranging quickly. This is a
HUGE plus.
- Installed 4 tire racks above the wall cabinets on one wall. (12 ceilings)
Each rack can hold 4-6 tires. I store snow tires and
track car tires here. I fill them all up. This is really awesome! (I should
thank my wife for encouraging this)
Electrical
- I have a 100 amp service to the garage.
+ Though not required for a sub panel, I used a panel that had a main breaker
so I can shut off everything quickly when I leave the
garage.
- Outlets are installed every 4 feet, mounted 4.5 feet off the floor so I can
access them regardless of where I put my benches and
tools.
- Each wall is on a separate breaker
- 2 220v outlets are installed in the walls for my compressor.
+ One 20 amp for the current compressor location.
+ One 30 amp in the future location for a vertical compressor
- 1 110/220v 30 amp outlet is mounted near my bench for MIG welder (Dryer type
plug)
HVAC
- Externally vented 45,000 BTU gas heater in the ceiling (No more kerosene or
propane).
+ I would have preferred a furnace with AC but I didnt have the space and the
cost differential was high.
- I stick a 18,000 BTU air conditioner (220v) in the window for the summer. Not
ideal but it gets the job done.
+ May make a semi permanent installation through a wall later.
Lighting
- Currently a weak point in my garage as I havent upgraded the lights. Follow
the other great suggestions for fluorescent lights.
- Make sure they are above the engine compartment of the cars. Take into
account which way the hoods open.
- Place them in rows between cars too
- Currently have one fluorescent light on a reel installed between the cars.
Will add two more. One on each side of the car.
Air
- I plan to install 3 hose reels. One between cars and one on either side of
them. I think this is actually better than having the
lines on the walls.
- I also plan to have a port above the work bench
- Use copper. PVC is unsafe. Screw pipe requires cutting and threading as you
go.
Other
- Ran wires for Internet, Phone, Cable.
Thats all I can think of for now.
Luis
_____
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mark Cookson
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 1:08 PM
To: Bill Cardell
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EXTERNAL: Re: Wally's future Garage-Mahal
Yeah, that's so true
In my new garage there are a ton of lights, but in the MN winter, with no heat
in the garage most of the time, some of them barely
turn on. I had one ballast catch fire (don't know why) and I replaced it with
a better model and it's a major improvement. That
light comes on instantly, runs quietly, and is much brighter than all the rest.
I'm guessing the previous owner put in cheap junk
(because it appears that's the kind of guy he was), but I have to second Bill
here, good ballasts are not a place to skimp on.
On Oct 13, 2011, at 9:30 AM, Bill Cardell wrote:
Light is critical. spend a few extra bucks and get ballasts that work in the
cold, unless you will be heated all the time. Otherwise
you'll be buying new lights every year.
Bill Cardell
TurboDog's Dad
Www.flyinmiata.com <http://Www.flyinmiata.com/>
1-800-fly-mx5s
970-464-5600
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